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Philipp Mayrhofer, last updated on 03/15/2022

In our modern and digital world, classic wristwatches are still very much in demand and, despite the possibility of conveniently reading the time on a smartphone, are still very popular. But regardless of whether the time is read from one’s own wristwatch or from the nearest church steeple, every watch has a so-called bezel. But what is this term all about?

The bezel is easy to find

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The so-called bezel of a watch is the border next to the dial. This French term refers to the moon, or more precisely, the small moon. If you now look more closely at the bezel of a watch, you can indeed see that the shape is comparable to a moon. A bezel can have a very different meaning depending on the type of watch in question. A distinction must be made between small watches and large watches.

Different meanings of the bezel

In earlier times, the so-called bezel was used as a decoration for wristwatches. It was also intended to provide additional protection and had no other function. This is completely different today. Sometimes you can turn a bezel and thus mark the exact time. However, each bezel can also have a completely different scale.

Some watches that have a particularly modern bezel are now also able to determine the pulse rate. This is also known as a pulsometer scale. The bezel does not necessarily have to be rotatable. In addition, the respiratory rate can also be determined here. Such watches are often used in the medical field to get an exact overview of relevant parameters related to the patient’s health.

What is the importance of the bezel on large watches?

Strictly speaking, the bezel does not have an important function on larger watches. However, it does serve a particular decorative purpose here. Especially during the Biedermeier period, this feature was added to watches in order to make them particularly attractive. Here, the bezels could also be made of particularly high-quality materials. A watch could thus become a particularly important status symbol during this period. In any case, the simple population could not afford a watch at that time. It was only in the course of the 20th century, around the end of the First World War, that watches could also be worn by the ordinary population. This was mainly due to technical progress. It was now possible to produce a watch in large numbers in a short time using simple materials and modern machines. If a wristwatch had a bezel, it could be made of a very simple and inexpensive material.

The first modern bezels

The first modern rotating bezel came onto the market in 1953. These were diving watches. This was a truly outstanding innovation at the time, because from then on, the diver could not only read the exact time, but could now also mark the time of the exact descent.

Over time, other important functions were added. Many of these watches with a modern bezel can measure the pulse rate, record distances or even determine the exact speed.

The fixed bezel and its importance

The so-called fixed bezel is comparable to the models from the early days. It is inseparable from the watch case and is also considered particularly attractive. Sometimes it also has an additional scale that can measure physical parameters.

A bezel can also be found on so-called pilot watches.

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On watches of this type, the bezel is anything but fixed, but can and must be turned in all conceivable directions for optimal use. The minute scale on this bezel is used for navigation. This enables the pilot to read off minutes of flight that have already passed. As a result, necessary changes of direction can also be derived. At every take-off, the zero point is set exactly to the minute hand. In watches of this type, the rotating bezel is also the most common feature.

It is not only a matter of determining the minutes, but ultimately also of planning suitable flight routes. You can think of this system as a kind of calculating disc or slide rule. The pilot is also enabled to convert nautical miles exactly.

Bezels are also very interesting for small watches

Even the smallest watch models can be equipped with the most modern rotating bezels. Contrary to what is sometimes assumed, this is not simply an additional ornamental feature, but can be used to call up a wide range of functions. The possible range of functions can vary greatly depending on the model. A popular function here is certainly the setting of alarm times. Furthermore, it is often possible to determine the direction of the compass.

What are the concrete advantages of a bezel?

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Ultimately, the advantages of such a feature are obvious. A few decades ago, the main focus was on decorating watches to attract attention. However, this is now completely different. Only a few watches are supplemented with a bezel purely for reasons of visual enhancement. For the most part, it is much more a matter of calling up specific functions.

The most important functions include setting alarm times, marking the date or the exact time. In addition, such a bezel can also be used as a diver’s watch or a pilot’s watch. It is also possible to determine important parameters related to health. Some of these watches are therefore quite capable of determining the pulse and the exact breathing rate.

What distance did I cover on a particular day? How many minutes did it take me? All this can be determined by means of a bezel. Some of these are also rotatable, sometimes in both directions.

Even if the focus here is now almost exclusively on determining certain parameters and the possibility of using certain functions or even performing calculations, bezels still remain an attractive feature. It kills two birds with one stone, so to speak. Great technical achievements are combined with an outstanding design. This is what excites many lovers of such watches.


About the author

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Philipp Mayrhofer

Hello my name is Philipp. I actually had my first points of contact with luxury watches through YouTube and the many watch reviews that can be seen there. As a result, I was able to acquire extensive watch knowledge.