Any watch - no matter whether it is an inexpensive or luxury model - is only as good as the movement that makes it run. In this context, the so-called power reserve is a central topic that every watch enthusiast should have dealt with intensively at least once. We explain what is meant by power reserve in the first place, take a look at the history of power reserves and, of course, present some top luxury watches with power reserve.
What exactly is the power reserve?
Power reserves are found in mechanical watches. These receive the energy they need to run through the power reserve. This works with the help of a mainspring in the barrel of the watch. This mainspring is tensioned by turning the winding crown - in the case of an automatic watch, not manually, but by means of a rotor. The tension sets the watch in motion and decreases over time, with the time span from full winding to maximum relaxation of the mainspring being referred to as the power duration. Once this time has elapsed and the spring is relaxed, the timepiece comes to a standstill.
As a general rule, it is recommended that the spring tension never be fully exhausted, but that watches with manual winding be wound regularly. This is because the more spring tension there is, the higher the accuracy of the movement. So that the wearer knows when it is time to wind the watch, power reserve watches often have a power reserve indicator.
Power reserve - the origin
Power reserves are not a novelty: the first watch with a power reserve is estimated to have been built in the 15th century. Before that, watches were powered by weights or water, which of course required the timepieces to be a certain size and made them quite unwieldy. The power reserve was intended to change this and led to watches being built in such small designs that they could be worn comfortably on the wrist.
The first watches with power reserve
Watches with power reserve indicators were predestined for use in precision timepieces. As such, they were introduced in 1933 in the form of a wristwatch prototype by the Breguet brand. In 1948, the first mass-produced watch with a power reserve indicator followed from Jaeger-LeCoultre. Known as "Powermatic", these wristwatches with power reserve indicators conquered the wide market in no time.
How is the power reserve indicator displayed?
The display of the power reserve can be done in different ways. The most common way is to use a power reserve scale with a hand that moves as the springs lose tension. When the watch is fully wound, the hand moves to one end of the scale and from there to the other end as the spring tension decreases. It is also possible to display the remaining power time by means of a cutout in the dial. The cutout, made popular by Jaeger-LeCoultre, reveals the correspondingly printed power reserve disc. However, some manufacturers are getting really creative these days and there are now countless variants of the power reserve indicator in almost every conceivable form.
Top watches with power reserve
As announced at the beginning, we would now like to take a closer look at some watches of different price ranges, which have the small complications of a power reserve display.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down
As a tribute to its founder, the company A. Lange & Söhne produced the luxury watch 1815, whose name recalls the year of birth of Ferdinand A. Lange. The noble wristwatch convinces with a power duration of 72 hours, about which a characteristic up/down scale provides information. Thanks to its dial in a classic design, the hand-wound men's watch meets many tastes and is definitely something for the style-conscious wearer who appreciates functionality and luxury in everyday life.
Zenith Elite 6150
The Zenith Elite 6150 is a watch that connoisseurs only need to take a single glance at to appreciate its value. It is a rather simple timepiece of no-frills elegance, whose mechanical movement runs like clockwork for up to 100 hours after being fully wound. So, the power duration here is set remarkably high, which might be one reason why this model has been left out of an optical power reserve indicator. Thus, nothing distracts from the brilliant discreetness that the straight-lined dial of the Elite 6150 radiates.
TAG Heuer Grand Carrera
The Grand Carrera watch from TAG Heuer is a men's watch with a steel case, which is in the mid-range price range. The remaining time until the movement stops is displayed here in a particularly simple, yet absolutely meaningful way. The power reserve indicator is placed at the 9 o'clock point and consists of a vertical scale, which does without any inscriptions at all. Fine lines divide the indication of the remaining energy of the spring and a small hand reminds the wearer to wind the watch.
Cartier Tortue
The Cartier Tortue is a good example of a high-quality watch with a power reserve indicator, the shape of which follows the common rule. The indicator is located at the 6 o'clock position and resembles the speed indicator of cars. This type of power reserve indicator is very common today, and in this watch from Cartier, it fits particularly harmoniously into the overall picture.
IWC Big Pilot's Top Gun
Often referred to as a masterpiece among luxury watches with manual winding, the Big Pilot's Top Gun from IWC knows how to convince all along the line. The movement with 7-day power autonomy is actually designed to last a full eight days. Nevertheless, it makes sense that the device stops operating after "only" seven days without being rewound. This ensures that the accuracy of the watch can meet the highest standards at all times.
Patek Philippe Nautilus
The Nautilus models from Patek Philippe excite watch lovers for many reasons. One of them might be the quite atypical power reserve indicator of the wristwatch. In this case, the power reserve indicator is set in the 59th minute range and thus not - as classically intended - aligned with 3, 6, 9 or 12 o'clock. So, if you are looking for a luxurious watch where the small complications are not necessarily presented in the typical manner, you should take a closer look at the Nautilus models.
Conclusion about the power reserve
In somewhat simplified summary, the power reserve can be described as a part of mechanical movements that supplies the watch with energy. By winding, a spring is tensioned, whose tension keeps the watch running and, starting with the winding, steadily decreases until the watch finally stops - at least if it is not rewound in time. In this sense, the power reserve display helps the watch wearer to estimate the power duration and to remember to wind it up regularly. The market today offers a huge selection of different watches with power reserve, so that really everyone can find a model that meets their personal wishes and ideas 100%.