8 pilot watches that all honour their names

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Stefan Sebök, last updated on 06/07/2018

Pilot watches are something very special. The look of this special type of timepiece is inspired by pilot watches and has numerous fans worldwide. At the beginning of the 20th century, a watch was indispensable for pilots, because without it precise navigation was impossible. But even if this is no longer the case today, the beautiful watches have fortunately not disappeared from the scene. Over time, the necessary article of daily use has only become a treasured piece of jewellery with a permanent place in the watch league! The characteristics of a typical pilot’s watch include good legibility and clarity. Pilots had to be able to recognize the various displays at a glance and read them correctly in order to avoid complications and arrive safely at their destination. That’s why pilot watches are always designed to be uncomplicated.

 

To guarantee the best possible legibility, the contrast of the dial is kept high; the most popular combination here is black and white. Bright numbers and hands on a black background are particularly advantageous and are therefore also most frequently represented. In addition, the numbers and hands of most models glow in the dark so that they can also be used at night. A simple and pleasant operation while flying, even with gloves, was mandatory at that time and is still today a good pilot’s watch. Furthermore, the design is a clear homage to the excellent aeronautical engineering: Noble materials are processed in high quality to meet the highest quality demands. The high reliability and functionality combined with the impressive appearance make these watches real must-haves! Which pilot’s watch will be your new favourite? As a decision-making aid and inspiration, we present the following 8 well-known masterpieces, which represent their category worthily!

 

 

All Black Everything – The IWC Top Gun Chronograph

You like technical finesse and love the modern all-in black look? Then you should have a closer look at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun. The popular pilot’s watch model in cockpit design impresses with its elegant tone-in-tone look. The clear black dial with brightly contrasting numerals and hands is combined with an elegant black embossed calfskin strap. On the bottom is the noble and discreet “Top Gun” logo engraving. A ceramic case with sapphire glass and soft iron inner lining for magnetic field shielding completes the luxurious material mix. The mechanical chronograph movement with automatic winding and a power reserve of 68 hours makes this Swiss piece the perfect everyday companion. In addition, the noble timepiece has a stop function for hour, minute and second, and flyback function. It is also waterproof up to a pressure of 6 bar. The watch line is also still offered in the “Miramar” version in military look with green calfskin strap, inspired by historical observation watches. This first-class model is therefore also an option for everyone who wants a little more colour.

IWC Fliegeruhr Top Gun Chronograph Ref. IW389001
IWC Fliegeruhr Top Gun Chronograph Ref. IW389001

The Rolex GMT Master II – your ideal travel companion

You love the classic stainless steel look combined with clear lines? Then the Rolex GMT Master II is worth considering. The striking shape and the clear contrast of soft silver and noble black make this model a real eye-catcher. The dial also offers this contrast and thus guarantees good legibility, while the Oyster strap with its sturdy folding clasp combines the advantages of flawless appearance and pleasant wearing comfort. The built-in Easylink extension system promises this advantage for a long time – a watch that adapts to changes. Displaying two different time zones simultaneously makes the watch the perfect travel accessory. No matter where you are and how often and quickly you change your location, never lose track of time differences between your home country and your current, past or future destination! This model also features an automatic self-winding mechanism, a rotating 24-hour bezel for easy adjustment of new times, and a particularly reliable movement thanks to the Parachrom spiral. Another highlight is the robustness of the timepiece. The extra hard 904L stainless steel is not only particularly resistant, but can also be polished to a strong shine and retains its beauty even under extreme conditions. The indices made of 18-carat gold are resistant to tarnishing and continue to set the watch apart from the competition: do not be satisfied with anything less than this high-quality piece of jewellery!

Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 116710 BLNR
Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 116710 BLNR

Say no to 0815 with the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonphase Chronograph!

An option for all stainless steel enthusiasts who value extravagance is the Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonphase Chronograph from the Swiss brand Omega. This excellent timepiece displays not only the current moment but also the phase of the moon. A reminder that an Omega Speedmaster was the first watch to be worn on the moon. The extremely complex mechanics are reliable and precise, the mechanism only needs to be readjusted every 10 years! The model with its special significance and technology is therefore a very special collector’s item. Its symmetrical design with a clear dial in the muted shades of black, brown, blue or grey with sunburst and matching ceramic bezel in black, brown, blue or green leaves nothing to be desired in design. Depending on the colour taste, the individual favourite piece can be generated here. This pilot’s watch is also available for fans of lighter designs with a dial in opalescent silver, an especially attractive alternative. The noble case is optionally made of stainless steel, 18K gold or 18K Sedna gold. Another special feature is a lifelike image of the moon on the dial of the stainless steel models, as well as the luminous hands and indices for each model. You can wear this brilliant extraordinary pilot’s watch with pride!

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonphase Chronograph Ref. 304.30.44.52.01.001
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonphase Chronograph Ref. 304.30.44.52.01.001

The Breitling Navitimer 01 – The proven all-rounder

The original Breitling Navitimer 01 has been considered a classic aviator watch since 1952. The creative design with stainless steel case, black-silver dial and contrasting red second hand makes this model a chic and impressive choice. The timepiece is also available in more striking pink gold and other dial colours, offering the right option for every style. With its reliable caliber, automatic winding and a power reserve of at least 70 hours, this model has a lot to offer in terms of functionality. The timeless Navitimer is the perfect entry-level pilot’s watch because it is powerful, durable and easy to use. The case made of sturdy sapphire crystal, the high-quality leather strap and the bi-directional toothed bezel make this model a practical, luxurious yet robust companion on all paths. What more do you want?

Breitling Navitimer 01 Ref. AB012012.BB01.435X.A20B
Breitling Navitimer 01 Ref. AB012012.BB01.435X.A20B

Bell & Ross Aviation 42 Automatic GMT – Luxury at a bargain price

The Aviation Automatic GMT from Bell & Ross is a cheaper alternative to the models mentioned above. The wristwatch in the well-known characteristic square shape is an option for all fans of clear structures. Who likes playful things is wrong here. But if you love simplicity, practicality and timelessness, you are well advised with this model. The sturdy stainless steel case with sapphire crystal makes this timepiece a robust piece of jewellery. The black dial with large white indices and hands for ideal legibility is complemented by the matching leather strap. Unnecessary features are deliberately avoided with this pilot watch, but there is a clear and high-quality classic with everything you really need. With its illuminated hands, automatic winding mechanism and the discreet display of a second time zone, the Aviation 42 leaves nothing to be desired despite its simplicity! In addition, Bell & Ross is also waterproof to a depth of 100 metres, which is hard to beat. Here, clear thought was given to what the ideal wristwatch must actually bring – and what can be dispensed with in favor of it. If you are looking for striking design and reliable functions at an excellent price-performance ratio, you should not miss this bargain!

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A round thing: Our price hit No.2 Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph

A very similar model to the Bell & Ross comes from Alpina. This pilot’s watch also impresses with its black leather strap, steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a water resistance of up to 100 metres at a similar price. It thus represents an alternative for all those for whom the Aviation 42 with its angular design is too prominent. The classic design of the Alpina in combination with the discreetly shiny grey dial appears softer and is therefore the right choice for all those who like it a little less conspicuous, but elegant and stylish. With integrated stopwatch and the transparent back of the case, this pilot’s watch has even more highlights and does not need to hide behind its competitors. The 46 hour power reserve and the contrastingly bright numerals and hands guarantee a high practical benefit.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph “Blackstar” Ref. AL-860GB4FBS6
Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph “Blackstar” Ref. AL-860GB4FBS6

The Longines Heritage Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch: Colour Blocking with class

The Heritage Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch by the French watchmakers Longines offers a completely different pilot’s watch experience. The model in round form impresses with a strong portion of extravagance. The white lacquered dial with black Roman numerals, blue second digits and colour-coordinated steel hands alone would be a real eye-catcher. But also the silver bezel, which can be rotated in both directions, is held in this colour combination of digits. In combination with a second inner dial, which adapts the second hand to daily variations of the equation of time with the help of radio time signs and rotating bezel, this model is however unbeatable in its uniqueness. The small dial is silvered with red and black numbers. Are you looking for a very special design that resists the typical pilot’s watches? Take a closer look at this masterpiece! The modern French timepiece is completed by an elegant brown alligator leather strap that perfectly matches the rest of the colour scheme. With this choice you show style in any case! The transparent case back with lid is also a real highlight for all those interested in mechanics. The water resistance up to a pressure of 3 bar, the automatic winding and the 46 hour power reserve make this model suitable for everyday use. The watch is also available with XL strap!

Longines Lindbergh
Longines Lindbergh

The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono

Finally, we would like to introduce you to the Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer, a tribute to flight with reliability, robustness and portability. The large, clear numbers shining in the dark, the stable curved and anti-reflective sapphire crystal and the stainless steel case are reminiscent of the Hamilton watches developed for the Royal Air Force in the 1970s. However, this history was of course combined with the latest technology. The power reserve lasts up to 60 hours and the pilot’s watch is water resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar! The transparent back gives you the opportunity to admire the excellent finish inside the watch. The restrained appearance of the Aviation Pilot Pioneer is enhanced by a colourful look: the trend tone khaki is entering the world of pilot watches and will always enhance your outfit. Next to the coloured nylon strap, the dial in a lighter khaki tone is the tasteful icing on the cake. The exquisite design is something very special and a guarantee for jealous looks. Besides, this treasure from Hamilton is a really good deal! What are you waiting for?

This post is also available in: German


About the author

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Stefan Sebök

During my school days I worked in the warehouse of an auction house and that was when I first came into contact with exclusive, mechanical watches. The fascination was born from that moment and has not let go of me to this day. So it was clear to me very early on that I wanted to learn more about the history and price development of watches - and of course I wanted to own an automatic watch at some point. (My absolute dream, unfortunately far away, was a Rolex GMT Master with the blue and red Pepsi bezel). During my studies, I took my first steps in trading used watches via various online marketplaces and was then able to afford a used Breitling Colt.