Baselworld 2018
For the watch and jewelry industry, Baselworld, which has been held annually in Basel, Switzerland, since 1917, is an enormously important event for presenting the brand and products in the best possible way – after all, the company’s success for the coming period can only be assured if the innovations reach the public. For the fans, the event is an ideal opportunity every year to take a close look at the inspirations of the watchmakers and to keep up to date with developments in the industry and to put one or the other model on their personal wish list. It is therefore not surprising that Baselworld was well attended again in 2018. In the meantime, this year’s exhibition is already more than a month ago – high time to review the event of the year in watches and jewellery and to summarise the current trends and most interesting highlights of your favourite brands!
The renaissance of cult pieces
The annual Public Viewing around the watch industry was once again an absolute success this year. Each brand tried to present its products in the best possible way and to convince the fans with its new products – and of course to stand out from the competition as strongly as possible. 2018 is not an easy task, because this year in particular the industry is broadly in agreement on fashion: retro-look models are the latest thing. To this end, the well-known luxury brands like to use the design of proven and ever-popular classics, increasingly models from 1930 to 1970, and equip them with the latest technology – in other words, a revival of cult watches. This “Heritage” wave is particularly popular with long-established collectors who appreciate the piece of history behind Old School jewellery.
Rolex is a perfect example: Swiss watchmakers have been around for a proud 110 years. It is therefore no wonder that the sought-after luxury brand fits so perfectly into the above scheme. Instead of creating completely new anniversary editions, the creative team simply reissues a legend from the 50s: Over 60 years after its market launch, the Rolex Pepsi alias GMT-Master II comes with its first Jubilée bracelet, even harder Oyster steel and the new automatic calibre 3285. In addition, the brand has recently caused a sensation in the watchmaking world with nickel-phosphor alloys and completely new laboratory developments to perfect new models.
Bright authenticity is the trend of the year
According to the earlier days, the case sizes are also kept smaller again. Noble timepieces for men with a diameter of less than 40 millimetres exude discreet elegance. Striking, bulky XXL chronographs look too obtrusive and deliberate this year. For this reason, the brands are happy to give their 2018 collections a “downgrade”. The same applies to the dial: the focus is directed to the essentials and unnecessary frills are deliberately avoided. The clean design ensures clear legibility of the time at first glance. Distraction is out of place! Despite their simplicity, however, the new models are by no means boring, as the bright colours at Baselworld match the spring. Refreshing blue, trendy green and bright red are the order of the day. Despite their slim and simple design, the new watches are real eye-catchers without looking overcharged. Omega and Frédérique Constant are just two of many well-known representatives of the watch industry who are jumping on this bandwagon.
Frédérique Constant, for example, has released its world time watch with a modern green dial and strap. The more extravagant case of the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, however, still houses the FC-718 movement with automatic winding and world time mechanism. This makes it possible to set the time, world time and date using the crown only. This makes it much easier and more practical to use than timepieces with many different setting features.
Old meets new
In addition to discreet designs in eye-catching colour nuances, however, timepieces inspired by old automobiles, diving watches and pilot watches are still in vogue. Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300 M diving icon is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. To celebrate this, the company has revised several models. But that’s not all: discover even more exciting new anniversary collections this year, such as those from the Speedmaster and Trésor series.
The large fan community of the military look can also breathe a sigh of relief, because the cult of the special design continues. In the future, the finest modern mechanics will continue to be added, and these will also be shown with pleasure using skeletonized dials and calibres. This great watchmaking art can still be found, for example, at Tag Heuer. With the Carrera Heuer 02 Chronograph, including a new engine, the top Swiss company is currently offering a more affordable alternative to comparable models.
The attractive watch is already available for less than 5000 euros. OMEGA also continues to expand its great leap in movement technology with the 12th and 13th Master Chronometer calibers, which can of course also be found in the anniversary collections mentioned. The Swiss team of Patek Philippe combined a world time watch with a minute repeater for the first time. This interaction is unique in the watch industry to date, and the development process has taken several years. Last summer, however, the “5531” finally celebrated its premiere at the Manufactory Exhibition in New York. Since this year’s Baselworld, it has also been available for unlimited purchase.
Battle of the Titans: Analog vs. Digital?
The well-known special flair of luxurious wristwatches is to be preserved naturally. Perhaps the trend towards the vintage look is a counter-movement to the rise of the Smartwatch and the generally strong digitalisation in the field of watches. So is the trend of the hour to a large extent a protest of traditional watch lovers?
The fact is that anyone who thinks that the analogue timepiece has clocked the last hour is wrong. The “legacy” of the classic wristwatch is still preserved, cult pieces in demand. However, this does not mean that digitisation is being pushed forward: This year, for example, Patek Philippe launched his new products for the first time via a social media presence. In his opening speech at Baselworld 2018, WELT editor-in-chief Ulf Poschardt appealed for a welcome to digital change without losing the origins of industry:”[…] we must not forget where we come from in times of change.” In future, therefore, it will be a question of compatibility between the two sides. We are looking forward to the coming trends and developments in this area and can hardly wait for Baselworld 2019!
This post is also available in: German