Pilot watches under 40 mm from Rolex, IWC and many more

Even if you've never been in a cockpit as a pilot, we fully understand if you still feel an affinity for pilot's watches. You're not alone; these watches have long enjoyed a certain cult status in the lifestyle and fashion worlds. They haven't been used for flight navigation or aviator calculations for some time. But even though they're more commonly worn at a desk than in the cockpit these days, they still retain their spirit of freedom that can't be tied to a specific time period.

Their sporty and attractive design recalls the adventures of pilots of yesteryear. But these watches are valued for more than just nostalgic reasons. Their functional design is characterized by a certain robustness and easy readability in all lighting conditions. While the latter often means a larger diameter, there's also a wide selection of watches available for people with smaller wrists—or a preference for slimmer models. In this article, we present five beautiful, technically sophisticated pilot watches with a smaller diameter.

Stowa Flieger Classic 36

At Stowa, you get a pilot's watch with a tasteful, simple design. It features a tasteful combination of a Swiss movement and the German design of a 1940s pilot's watch. The easy readability is primarily due to the dark dial and luminous hands. What makes this watch special is that it can be customized to your specific preferences: bronze or stainless steel, with or without a logo, with an automatic movement or manual winding—all according to your individual taste.

Like Sinn, Stowa also played a leading role in the introduction of the DIN 8330 pilot's watch certification. This German standard, in effect since 2016, has set high standards for pilot's watches ever since. It's crucial that the watches don't interfere with other devices in the aircraft. Whether it's drops to the ground or exposure to magnetic fields, the Stowa Flieger Klassik 36 survives them all unscathed. This makes it the perfect, robust everyday companion that also looks great with its minimalist and stylish design.

Longines Heritage Military

As one of the most successful and oldest Swiss watch brands, Longine feels connected to both the past and the future. This also explains its penchant for paying homage to famous models, including the Longines Heritage Military. Even in its time, it stood out among other pilot's watches with its white dial and blued hands.

The new model is also closely aligned with the original. While the reference is missing on the dial, it is still Longines' only automatic watch. It is powered by an automatic movement with a 64-hour power reserve. Despite this lack of reference, Longines wanted to keep the design as close as possible to the original, which was still wound by hand. The curvature of the sapphire crystal is also modeled on the Plexiglas of yesteryear. The attention to detail doesn't stop there: Fine black splashes of color adorn the dial, imitating the patina of yesteryear. Freedom-loving individualists will find the perfect watches with Longines' unique pieces.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air King

It's no coincidence that this Rolex appears on this list. This watch was originally created for the Royal Air Force, and the design makes no secret of that. This pilot's watch measures exactly 40 mm in diameter. Larger pilot watches are considered a category all their own, and tastes naturally differ, so this watch is perhaps a somewhat bolder choice. But this characteristic is certainly something that pilots can always use. As a larger watch on slimmer wrists, this "statement watch" takes on a whole new dimension.

Rolex has pulled out all the stops with this watch: from the Oyster design with a color homage to the Explorer, mixed with a touch of Rolex green, to the slight and ergonomic curve of the lugs, which tastefully adapts to any wrist. The Air-King is also quite exciting as an investment. Its price makes it a good start on the path to becoming a Rolex collector, and it has developed excellently in recent years. Therefore, it is an excellent choice both as an investment and as a fashion statement.

Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer

Swiss quality with a relaxed American lifestyle vibe? No problem for the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer. The brand offers a range of so-called tool watches that can handle almost anything and are therefore suitable not only for everyday use but also for sports. Whether for military missions or outdoor activities, these watches boast reliability and style. Some of the watches are inspired by successful predecessors of the past – which were once even worn by US military soldiers – and let the proven design speak for itself. This includes the iconic dial with its unique structure. However, their inner workings are anything but historic, and the technology of the movement is state-of-the-art. This is ensured by the hand-wound movement with the highest precision and an 80-hour power reserve.

The Pioneer is a real eye-catcher and guaranteed to stand out from the crowd. The 33 cm diameter accommodates an extravagant design that is second to none. The box-shaped case is inspired by a model from the 1970s that was extremely unique even back then. In this case, form follows function, as the goal for the model was maximum legibility. Accordingly, both the case and dial are matte. The double-sided anti-reflective glass also supports this. Given its military background, it's no surprise that this watch comes on a NATO strap. For fans of robust watches with a highly individual design, the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer is exactly the right choice.

IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire

Last but not least: This IWC watch, which of course cannot be left out of any list of outstanding pilot's watches. As a brand, IWC is famous for its pilot's watches. But we were particularly taken with the Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire, whose namesake, the Spitfire cockpit, actually served as inspiration here. The homage is evident in the design of the stainless steel case, the brown calfskin strap, and the black dial. The purist style of the Mark 11, which IWC produced for the British Royal Air Force starting in 1948, is also evident here. This watch presents two military legends in one.

The inner workings of the watch are equally impressive: The IWC-manufactured caliber 32110 is used here for the first time. The robust movement with a 72-hour power reserve is, as is probably the case with all pilot's watches, protected from magnetic fields by a soft-iron inner cage. Thanks to the glass used in this model, it can easily withstand even sudden drops in pressure. Here, design, technology, tradition, and emotion are combined in the smallest possible diameter.