SIHH 2019 - The Most Important New Releases of the Year

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva is an internationally important meeting place for the watchmaking industry and the in-house exhibition of the Richemont Group. 35 prestigious brands present their offerings at the Geneva event, including both in-house and independent brands. The invited guests are primarily experts in the field, who are eager to impress with the new products, trends, and developments of the new year. Each year, the new watchmaking releases range from chronographs and pilot's watches to pocket and world time watches. Thus, there is always something for everyone, and the exquisite salon is always a diverse highlight of the highest quality.

This year's Geneva Watch Salon stands out

The SIHH is one of the world's most important events for luxury watches. Therefore, it is important to present the manufacturers' new offerings in the best possible way in the elegant, exclusive ambience of the salon and to inform connoisseurs about the future of craftsmanship. For four days up until January 17, 18 well-known veterans and 17 smaller, younger brands presented their ranges for the new year. One thing is certain: expertise and diversity were represented to the highest degree. This year, however, was the last time the Geneva Watch Salon was held in January. In 2020, like Baselworld, it will be moved to April or May – a brief farewell, in other words. We reveal all the highlights and top talking points of SIHH 2019 – the last of its kind – below.

This is trend

Like every year, there are new trends that you should definitely know about. Blue watches will remain popular in 2019. They have become so established that various shades are now being extensively discussed. Bronze tones have also secured a place in the product ranges of many manufacturers. These are often complemented by green dials – a daring combination that, however, is not well received by everyone. Printed or flat dials, on the other hand, are hardly in demand anymore. Numerals are at least applied, and the dial has more than one level. Open plates are faceted, and glasses have unusually curved surfaces. In addition, fusions of materials are the order of the day: "Ceratanium" by IWC is just one of many combinations that were created with the aim of making the timepieces even more robust. Retro design, which can be found on every corner under the label "vintage" or "heritage," remains on trend. Prestigious cult pieces from earlier times are currently being reissued in all possible colors and sizes – but of course with calibers and materials that meet modern standards.

Cartier was the star of the fair

Cartier focuses on over 100 years of tradition with the new 2019 Santos model. The "Santos de Cartier" was one of the world's first pilot's watches and was designed by Louis Francois Alfred, the son of the company founder, and the renowned motorized aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. The new "Santos de Cartier Chronographe" from the French luxury brand now impresses with its extra-slim design and ease of use.

The built-in manufacture caliber 1904-CH MC is also a true showcase of the finest watchmaking craftsmanship. The strap can be easily interchanged using push buttons. The patented "QuickSwitch" mechanism concealed within the case allows the wearer to effortlessly switch between rubber, leather, or steel versions. Furthermore, the equally patented "SmartLink" system allows the length of metal straps to be adjusted without additional tools—a clever move by the French brand. Another topic of conversation was the "Panthère de Cartier Mini." This icon of the 1980s remains immensely popular today and has now been launched as an elegant mini version. A dial framed by screws, sleek gold links, soft edges, and the prominent octagonal winding crown—the Panthère, as connoisseurs appreciate it.

This faithful replica in a new format is impressive, with all the proportions perfectly reproduced. Ideal for delicate wrists and for combining with other pieces of jewelry. The well-known "Baignoire" was also reissued for women this year. This wristwatch was first released in 1910, but the new model is based on the design of the 1958 version. Catherine Deneuve, Jeanne Moreau, and Romy Schneider were already fans of this elegant watch. The oval case with its slim bracelet and Roman numerals on a matte silver background create a sophisticated, modern image. Less understated in comparison, this timepiece's sister model is: the elongated bezel of the "Baignoire Allongée" is adorned with rose gold lace. The extravagant case is combined with an alligator leather strap. For extra drama, the model is also available with a diamond-studded dial and even with a complete diamond cover.

Further highlights from the top brands

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne celebrates the 10th anniversary of the "Zeitwerk" this year. To mark the occasion, the manufacturer's first mechanical wristwatch with a precisely jumping digital display has been reissued: The 2019 "Zeitwerk Date" is the first model in the series to also display the calendar day. It can be read on the new, exposed date ring, which is perfectly coordinated with the design of the watch.

The crystal is printed with red numbers from 1 to 31, perfectly complementing the white gold case and gray dial. To allow for easy adjustment of the timepiece using two corrector pushers, the movement has been made even more complex: the new caliber comprises a whopping 516 parts.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet 's booth was arguably one of the most interesting this year: This year's collection includes a total of three movements and 13 models. The Le Brassus-based company launched a stunning variety of new releases, ranging from three-hand models to pieces with complications such as a chime. However, Audemars Piguet has long been known above all for its Royal Oak models. The first Royal Oak timepiece was developed in 1972 as the first luxury sports watch. Fans remain enthusiastic about the line and eager for new versions. The highlight of the manufacturer's new releases at SIHH was certainly the new Royal Oak version with a smaller 38mm case and slimmer design – and best of all, it's equally wearable for both genders.

Or the new CODE 11.59 series.

IWC

This year, IWC has revamped its pilot's watches. Many classics have been fitted with new, high-tech cases. They not only boast World War II-era charm, but also feature elegant beige zirconium oxide ceramic or precious matte black "Ceratanium." The latter is a name for ceramized titanium, which is both particularly lightweight and durable. The "Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire" features an attractive military look.

Or you should definitely take a closer look at the “Big Pilot's Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition Le Petit Prince” with its case made of scratch-resistant hard gold.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The popular watchmakers from Le Sentier launched the highly limited "Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel" this year. Only 50 pieces were produced. This special timepiece features a new tourbillon and a date counter, and comes in a completely new look. The completely redesigned design impresses with its elegant case, and the new Jaeger-LeCoultre 978 caliber also offers technical sophistication. The absolute icing on the cake of this watch: at six o'clock, you can marvel at the spectacle of the tourbillon through a small opening.

Montblanc

Montblanc introduced two new models that particularly caught our eye. The first is the 1858 Geosphere in bronze with a khaki green dial and color-coordinated NATO straps. These are even specially produced in a traditional weaving factory in France. The 1858 series is inspired by mountaineering and is dedicated to the "Seven Summits," the highest mountains on each of the seven continents—and thus the greatest challenges for ambitious athletes. The Geosphere is also suitable for water lovers, as it is water-resistant to a depth of an impressive 100 meters. The second timepiece is the "Heritage Monopusher Chronograph," a true retro star.

Not only does it recall its noble historical relatives externally, with the company's old logo, applied dot indices, and the three-minute division of the totalizer for counting telephone charge units, but it also skillfully continues the old traditions technically: The pusher integrated into the crown allows for the stopwatch hand to be operated in a very old-fashioned way.

Panerai

Panerai currently focuses on casual elegance and pragmatism. The new Luna Rossa Challenger Submersible model is dedicated to the collaboration with the "America's Cup," the oldest sporting competition in the modern world. This year marks the 36th anniversary of the America's Cup, and Panerai will be the official sponsor of Luna Rossa, the "Challenger of Record" team.

Under the leadership of Massimiliano "Max" Sirena, the Luna Rossa Sailing Team will wear the new watch with a 47mm case and dark gray sailing dial. The titanium back features the engraved Luna Rossa logo and America's Cup profile.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755, making it the world's oldest continuously operating watchmaker. This year, the company managed to become the number one technological talking point at the Salon. The new "Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar" features two escapement groups, which can be easily switched between at the touch of a button. One, with its fast-oscillating balance, ensures precision on the wearer's active arm, while the other, slower, ensures reliable function during rest periods – for up to 65 days. However, expect to pay €217,000 for this elegant, impressive perpetual calendar watch.

Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin has the X-factor: The "Executive Skeleton Tourbillon," introduced in 2016, is a combination of classic and hypermodern elements, complemented by a sporty and drastically skeletonized dial. This was also the brand's first attempt to establish itself in the fiercely competitive watch market and target a younger, more fashionable target group. The new "Skeleton X" version is even sportier and features a redesigned tourbillon—and at just a third of the price of its predecessor. In addition, the case size has been reduced from 45mm to 42mm and is elongated for a more stylish look.

This special watch is available in various versions, with the Carbonium Gold edition being particularly noteworthy. It features a 1mm larger case and is extremely lightweight and functional thanks to the unusual material. Carbon is actually used to manufacture wings and fuselages in aviation. The material is supposedly particularly environmentally friendly because it is obtained from aviation waste. The carbon is mixed with gold, giving the Skeleton X a unique black and gold wave look. The design of the dial is also spectacular, with the rectangular bridge with its four arms forming the eponymous "X." The famous Roman numerals have been reduced to just two at 3 and 9 o'clock in the new version. With the exception of the black titanium model, contrasting colors have also been used on the dial to optimize legibility.

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