Image source: Phillips - Rolex Submariner “MilSub”, Ref. 5513, Lot 272, The Geneva Watch Auction: XV, May 7, 2022, https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/272

The Rolex "Military Submariner" is primarily known by the abbreviation MilSub. This special Submariner model was commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) and issued exclusively to the British military. Today, it is estimated that approximately 200 of the original 1,200 models are still in circulation. This makes the Military Submariner one of the rarest collectibles from the Rolex brand. In this article, we will introduce the Rolex MilSub and its three references in more detail, highlighting the special features of the models, and discussing their purchase, collectibility, and sale.

The most important things in brief

This article details the following information:

• Military background: The Rolex MilSub is a rare military modification of the Rolex Submariner, produced in collaboration with the MoD in three references (5513, 5517, and 5513/5517). The watches, of which only approximately 1,200 were produced, were worn by soldiers of the British Royal Navy and British Royal Army. Today, only about 200 of these historic rarities remain.

• Features and Design: Adapted to the increased demands of the military, the MilSub features several unique features. For example, it has fixed lugs, is coated with tritium luminous material, and comes in a non-reflective, satin-finished stainless steel case. The MilSub is also recognizable by its so-called "Sword Hands" hand design, the engravings on the case back, and the prominent "T" for tritium on the dial.

• Purchase and value: Given the rarity and history of the Rolex MilSub, it is not surprising that the watch's collector value is extremely high. MilSubs regularly fetch six-figure sums at auctions, with the achievable prices naturally depending on the condition, the existing documentation, and the exact reference. While the historical background makes this military watch particularly interesting for collectors, it is primarily attractive to investors due to its potential for appreciation.

Design and specifications of the Rolex MilSub

As a military modification of the civilian version, the MilSub naturally shares much in common with the Rolex Submariner for the average consumer. The wide bezel with a 60-minute index, the enlarged indices, and the luminous coating on the classic hands immediately reveal that this diver's watch with a military history is a Submariner.

In developing the MilSub, Rolex strictly adhered to the MoD's specifications. These included, among other things, strong, reinforced spring bars and a robust NATO strap. The dial also features the inscription "T," which draws attention to the tritium luminous material of the hands and indices. The shape of the hands is also a unique feature that distinguishes the Rolex MilSub from the "standard" Rolex Submariner. Rolex uses the hand design, colloquially known as "sword hands," with sword-shaped elements.

The MilSub's case is made of non-reflective, satin-finished stainless steel, and the bezel features an aluminum inlay. Die-hard Rolex fans will immediately notice another difference from modern Submariner watches: The bezel of today's Submariner diver's watch is made of Cerachrom, a ceramic material characterized by its corrosion and scratch resistance.

Inside the MilSub's 40-millimeter case ticks a Rolex 1520 movement, which is water-resistant to depths of 200 meters. This mechanical movement performs with the utmost reliability and precision, meeting the demanding requirements of military use.

Differences between Ref.: 5513, 5517 and 5513/5517

There are three Rolex MilSub references in total: 5513, 5517, and the "double number" 5513/5517. The model with reference 5513, released in 1976, is not a standalone special edition for delivery to the military, but merely a modification of the "civilian Submariner" with the same reference. The case is different with the watch with reference 5517. This model was created specifically according to the MoD's specifications and listed as a separate reference number. The third version in the series is the double reference 5513/5517, which is considered a particular rarity among the already rare MilSub watches.

In terms of technical specifications, the variants are identical down to the last detail. They feature the same calibers, are made of the same materials, and are each water-resistant to 200 meters. Some differences can be found in the dial designs. Until 1977, for example, the Ref. 5513 was preferred with the "Serif" dial, as were the 5513/5517 "double number" MilSub watches produced in 1979. The military Submariner Ref. 5517, on the other hand, often received a different type of dial, either the "Smudge Crown" or the "Maxi MK1" dial. However, the references cannot be clearly distinguished from one another based on their dials, as the dials of many MilSub watches were replaced during the course of their military use.

The meaning of markings and indices in MilSub

All variants of the MilSub are equipped with various markings that indicate different things or provide information. First, there's the "T" on the dial, already mentioned in this article, which indicates that the Rolex's hands and indices are coated with tritium luminous material. Directly below—between the "T" and the "Submariner" logo—is the information about the models' water resistance.

The case back features an engraving that reveals whether the watch was intended for the British Navy (engraving 0552) or the British Army (engraving W10). Additionally, some are engraved with the NATO code for diving watches (923-7697) and the NATO UK code (99). The other side of the case back is engraved with the serial number, reference, and production period. Upon closer inspection, the Rolex itself answers many questions about these rare watches.

The Rolex MilSub in military service

For many collectors, the Rolex MilSub is so interesting not only because of its rarity, but also because of its military use. While the market offers numerous military watches that are merely replicas of a "real" military watch, the MilSub was actually developed in collaboration with the British Royal Navy and worn by soldiers. Each watch thus carries a piece of military history.

Collector value and market for the Rolex MilSub

Rolex watches rightfully enjoy a reputation for being in high demand far beyond Germany and the German-speaking world. Anyone who acquires a coveted Rolex reference can be almost certain to be able to resell the watch at an attractive price if necessary. Below, we'll discuss how the Rolex MilSub, in particular, performs on the market, what sellers should know, and what to look out for before making a purchase.

Value creation and market development

The Rolex Military Submariner is one of the most sought-after collector's watches in the entire luxury watch world. This is due to the interplay of several factors that increase the models' appeal. First, there is the Rolex brand name, which is a compelling selling point in itself. Second, its rarity makes this special Rolex Submariner an enormously interesting object for watch enthusiasts. And then, of course, there is the impressive history of the watch, which was produced for the British military and actually used in combat – something that few watches can claim.

Accordingly, the prices that sellers ask for an original Rolex MilSub are high. Well-preserved items regularly change hands for several hundred thousand euros, and they are usually not sold through watch dealers or trading platforms like eBay, but rather go under the hammer at prestigious auction houses.

Factors that influence the value

The price a seller can achieve for a Rolex MilSub depends primarily on the watch's condition. The fewer signs of wear and the less subsequent modifications the military watch has undergone, the more it can command. Therefore, the most valuable items are those with the original dial, case, bezel, hands, and bracelet that are fully functional and undamaged.

Equally important is the availability of accessories. If nothing is included with the watch, it significantly reduces the selling price. This is because the majority of buyers attach great importance to ensuring that all the important documentation is present for a watch as expensive as the Rolex MilSub. Since vintage watches generally do not come with a warranty, the otherwise essential warranty card is not of interest here, but the service history is.

Furthermore, the exact reference determines the achievable selling price. Although all Military Submariner variants are inherently rare and expensive, the Ref. 5517 and the Ref. 5513/5517 are typically priced higher than the somewhat more readily available Ref. 5513.

Authenticity and buyer protection

Counterfeit watches are constantly being offered for sale in Germany, with the Rolex brand conspicuously represented among them. This is no surprise, given the enormous demand for these expensive luxury watches, which makes the trade in fakes a lucrative business for fraudsters. Therefore, it is essential to check the authenticity of a Rolex MilSub before deciding to purchase it.

We strongly recommend having the authenticity of any available example confirmed by a qualified expert. When viewing online, you can sometimes roughly estimate whether you're dealing with an original based on the available photos and description. To do this, you should check the reference and serial numbers for inconsistencies, examine the dial design more closely, and compare the details of the watch (e.g., hands, engravings on the case, and lettering on the dial) with photos of a verified original.

Future prospects and investment potential

Rolex watches are generally considered to retain their value and are extremely popular with investors. The Military Submariner Watch is no exception. Quite the opposite: It's a true rarity with an interesting historical background, making it an ideal investment. While market developments can never be predicted with certainty, continued positive price developments can be expected for this rare Rolex gem.

Restoration and care of the Rolex Military Submariner

Anyone who owns a Rolex MilSub should treat it like a treasure. Because ultimately, that's exactly what it is: a masterpiece steeped in history and of great value. It goes without saying, then, that such a watch should be treated with care and regularly serviced by a professional. Ideally, this work should be performed by an expert who is familiar with Rolex models and possesses sufficient expertise in the field of vintage watches. Such a specialist can also advise on any necessary restoration work and implement it in a way that minimizes the value of the luxury watch.

Well-known auctions and sales of Rolex MilSub models

If a Rolex Military Sub is available for purchase, it's usually only for a short time due to huge demand. Time and again, auctions achieve prices that far exceed the previously generous valuations of watch insiders. Most recently, a 1972 MilSub Ref. 5513 was auctioned at Phillips in 2022 for a whopping CHF 150,000. This represents a near-bargain for the lucky buyer, as comparable auctions sometimes sold for well over the €250,000 mark.

Rolex MilSub: A collector's watch with a unique history

The Rolex MilSub remains as popular among collectors as ever – not least because of its exciting history and connection to the British Ministry of Defense. Watches with a military background, such as the Comex variants or the Omega Seamaster, hold a special place in the world of collector watches. Auctions, such as those at Phillips, are increasingly gaining traction and fetching top prices.

An interesting look at the brand reveals that even older models are easily identifiable by their reference number and distinctive engravings. Retailers and platforms within the Internet service provider network make it easier to find the watch of your dreams, while always paying attention to originality.

Another notable reason for the ongoing hype is the preservation of historical details about the watches—be it nicknames, the famous lettering on the dial, or special variants documented for archival purposes. The term "MilSub" is firmly established in the scene, even though disputes about its registration or use in auction catalogs repeatedly arise. In fact, the TTAB (Trademark Trial and Appeal Board) has handled similar cases in the past.

While many big names dominate, microbrand manufacturers with military designs are also gaining increasing importance – however, they can't quite match the MilSub's legend. It remains a true classic, admired by watch enthusiasts worldwide – whether as an investment or as a contemporary witness to military precision.

Conclusion

A watch specially modified for the British military, the Rolex MilSub was never produced for the civilian public and was manufactured in a limited edition of approximately 1,200 pieces. Its rarity, combined with its military history and the Rolex brand name, makes the timepiece one of the most coveted luxury watches of all time. Therefore, anyone who wants to fulfill their dream of owning an original MilSub must be prepared for a complex and potentially lengthy search and be prepared to invest a six-figure sum.