Classic watches: an overview of timeless elegance
Classic watches are certainly the most sought-after category among timepieces for men and women. In this context, classics refer to watches that don't follow trends or fleeting fashions, but are designed so timelessly that they can be worn stylishly for decades. These wristwatches are pieces of jewelry that accompany their owners for a lifetime and are often suitable for every conceivable occasion. In this article, we take a detailed look at the most well-known classic watches, discuss the characteristics that make a watch a classic, and take a look at the technology, design, and materials of these long-lasting models.
The most important things in brief
The following points about classic watches are explained in more detail below:
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Design and features: Classic watches are characterized by an elegant design and high-quality, carefully crafted materials (often stainless steel, white gold, and yellow gold). They are usually comparatively simple, avoid overly extravagant designs on the dial and strap, and do not follow short-lived trends. Instead, their design focuses on the essentials and strives for aesthetic timelessness.
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Functions and movement: A classic watch can feature complex functions (e.g., a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or tourbillon), but these aren't necessarily required. Far more important is a powerful movement that delivers precision and reliability over time.
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Brands and models: Numerous well-known brands (e.g., A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Patek Philippe) have produced classics throughout their corporate history. Good examples of classic watches from "good brands" include the Rolex Submariner, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and the Cartier Tank.
Important watch brands and their classics
If you're looking for a classic luxury watch, you'll surely find it in the assortment of the "big names" of the watch world. Renowned brands such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Audemars Piguet, and Jaeger-LeCoultre know the ingredients needed to create a successful classic. They all have one or two references up their sleeves that, in the eyes of experienced watch connoisseurs, represent the epitome of a timeless classic.
Examples include the iconic Rolex Submariner diver's watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with its unique reversible design, or the military-inspired Cartier Tank. Before we take a closer look at these and other legendary models later in this article, let's first ask the question of what exactly makes a watch a classic. Great classic watches usually combine several of these aspects:
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Timeless design: The watches have a design that flatters the eye regardless of current trends and fashions
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Elegance and discretion: They are designed in a rather reserved manner and do without bright colours or extravagant shapes in favour of timeless elegance
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Quality and workmanship: The products meet the highest quality standards, are made of robust, noble and cleanly processed materials and are therefore extremely durable
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Pleasant feel: They sit comfortably on the wrist and offer a high level of comfort
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Memorable story: Often there is a special story behind the classic timepiece, which makes it even more interesting
Men's watches and women's watches: differences and similarities
Of course, there are classics among both women's and men's watches. Both classic luxury watches for women and men's watches impress with quality, a powerful movement, and an attractive appearance. However, some differences are also noticeable. Typically, the case diameter of a women's watch is smaller than that of a watch for the style-conscious man, and the strap is usually slimmer as well. While women's watches are often adorned with diamonds, the classic men's watch focuses more on simplicity and clean lines.
Well-known watch manufacturers such as Rolex, IWC, and Cartier make sure to include variations for both men and women in many of their collections. A good example of this is Vacheron Constantin's Tradition collection. It includes a compelling range of timepieces with case diameters from 30 to 43 millimeters. The watches display a beautiful variety of designs, ranging from feminine with diamonds and pastel elements to more masculine with rich leather and sporty elements.
Materials in classic watches
A wide variety of materials are used to manufacture the various components of a timepiece today. For classic watches, manufacturers are increasingly relying on materials that have been used in traditional watchmaking for centuries. The case is typically made of precious metal, primarily stainless steel, silver, or gold. These high-quality metals have proven themselves not only in terms of durability and craftsmanship, but also visually form a solid foundation for a classic design.
For the dial of classic watch models, it's also a good idea to choose a material with a long tradition. Popular materials include bronze, brass, and copper, as well as gold, silver, platinum, and mother-of-pearl. Overly elaborate decorations are rarely found on the dial of this classic watch, as they would detract from the understated look. Instead of eye-catching patterns and bright colors, the dial of a true classic tends to feature white, black, and muted tones. Traditional finishes, such as dials with graining or sunburst, are not uncommon.
Of course, the strap of a wristwatch must also reflect the classic style. Only then does it blend harmoniously into the overall look, giving the watch a coherent appearance. Watches with leather straps are in high demand, and the leather can undoubtedly elevate the charm of a thoroughly classic watch to the next level. Equally common are precious metal straps that match the case material. Rubber and textile straps are rather rare for classic dress watches.
Classic watches: diversity in style and technology
The world of classic watches offers an impressive array of models, each distinguished by its design and mechanics. While minimalist dials with Roman or Arabic numerals are typical of classic watches, there are also versions with date displays or additional complications. High-quality automatic watches are particularly valued, but elegant pocket watches are also enjoying growing popularity.
Thanks to online platforms and forums, watch lovers can share their passion and gain personal impressions of various watch brands. This demonstrates that classic watches are far more than just timepieces – they embody a unique style and convey a special sense of time, which is further conveyed by iconic models such as the elegant dress watch classic or striking designs.
The bracelet: An important style element
Let's stay with the topic of straps and delve a little deeper into the subject. Unfortunately, the strap is far too often underestimated as a stylistic element of a watch. It's often viewed as a decorative but non-essential accessory rather than what it truly is: a central component of the watch that significantly shapes its design.
As already mentioned, the leather strap is a very common type of strap for classic watches. It's no wonder, since leather straps have always been a strong presence on the market and are particularly popular for timepieces with an elegant, simple design. A leather strap can further emphasize the retro chic of a vintage watch, but can also add an extra dose of sophisticated elegance to new, modern luxury watches. Not to mention that a leather strap feels wonderfully supple and soft on the wrist. It adapts to the shape of the body, making it incredibly comfortable to wear. As long as the leather straps are high-quality and well-maintained, watch straps made of various types of leather can be amazingly durable. Well-maintained and cleanly crafted straps made of fine calfskin or alligator leather will retain their high-quality appearance for a lifetime.
In addition to leather bracelets, precious metal bracelets are also enjoying great popularity. These are available in various designs, such as simple link bracelets or Milanese mesh bracelets. The smaller the links, the better the metal bracelet follows the shape of the wrist—similar to a leather bracelet—which in turn increases comfort. In direct comparison to a leather bracelet, a chunky metal bracelet appears significantly sportier, while delicate link bracelets and Milanese mesh bracelets can be just as elegant as a leather bracelet.
If you're still unsure whether to wear a metal or leather bracelet, you should consider not only the aesthetic aspects, but also the functionality and ease of care. Metal bracelets require no special care, are easy to clean with microfiber cloths and brushes, and can easily be rinsed under running water. Leather bracelets, on the other hand, can become brittle and lose their shine and suppleness if exposed to too much water and not cared for with leather care products. Therefore, they require a little more care than their stainless steel, gold, and other equivalents.
Design and appearance of classic watches
If one had to describe the design of classic timepieces in three words, these would be quite apt: simple, traditional, and timeless. A classic watch thrives on unspectacular design elements that are familiar without being dusty, outdated, or "out of date."
The dial of this traditionally designed watch is elegantly understated in this sense. This means it lacks any striking textures or patterns, features a subtle color, and houses hands in classic pen-shaped, sword-shaped, pear-shaped, or obelisk-shaped forms. Speaking of shape: watch manufacturers predominantly opt for circular cases, and less frequently for rectangular ones. Other dial and case shapes are virtually nonexistent in classic watches.
The cases of classic watches are generally rather flat. Very bulky, thick models are less suited to the typical image of a classic dress watch. The comparatively slim watch cases frame the dial and are equally as minimalist and straightforward. This creates a harmonious balance between the dial and the metal case. The two central design elements don't try to steal the spotlight from one another, but rather work hand in hand to emphasize the understated elegance of each other.
As for the indices, dress watches feature Arabic or Roman numerals in a legible font and sized to match the case diameter. Oversized, unusually printed, or otherwise deviating from the norm are completely untypical for classic watches. However, you often see examples that dispense with numerals entirely, or simply place them at quarter-hour intervals, and otherwise use lines or dots of varying thickness on the dial.
Technical features of classic watches
After taking a detailed look at the designs of classic watches, it's now time to examine their inner values. After all, the movement is the heart of every watch and plays a key role in determining its quality. At this point, we first need to distinguish between quartz watches and models with mechanical movements.
A quartz watch draws its energy from a battery, which sets the built-in quartz element in oscillation. A mechanical movement, on the other hand, operates on a mainspring that is tensioned and releases energy as the tension is evenly released. Mechanical movements are divided into automatic and manual movements. The automatic movement uses the natural arm movements while wearing the watch to wind the spring, while the manual movement is wound manually using the crown.
Both options—quartz calibers and mechanical (automatic) movements—can, when well-crafted, deliver precision, accuracy, and reliability, and are present in classic watches. However, the mechanical movement clearly has the edge. It's more closely associated with traditional craftsmanship and is therefore the obvious choice to power an authentic classic.
When it comes to complications, the great classic watches include both feature-packed luxury models and those that are entirely limited to displaying the time. Classic timepieces can boast, for example, a perpetual calendar, a chronograph function, a tourbillon, or a moon phase display, but don't necessarily have to offer such complex functions.
Buying advice for classic watches
If you're looking to purchase a classic watch, the product selection is incredibly large. This makes it all the more important to take your time with the purchase, gain an overview of the market, and clearly define your own preferences and ideas. These aspects should be given the greatest attention:
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Preferred brands: Do you have any personal favorites? Focusing on a few favorite brands, such as IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, A. Lange & Söhne, or Patek Philippe, can help narrow down your watch selection.
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Collections and models: Almost all major watch brands have collections of classic dress watches. You should browse through these to find your personal favorites. Ideally, you shouldn't limit yourself to a single model, but rather consider two to five suitable models. After all, the highly sought-after models are often only available with a lot of luck and patience.
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Materials: Do you have specific preferences regarding the materials used for the watch case and dial? For example, if you're looking for a classic luxury watch made of stainless steel, you can rule out references made of other precious metals right from the start. This further narrows the pool of available classic models, making the further search more pleasant.
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Availability: It's also important to check the availability of the shortlisted products. Can the references be ordered through the manufacturer or specialist retailer, and what wait times can be expected? Or is there no alternative to the secondary market? The more limited, sought-after, and well-known a model is, the less available it is usually.
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Condition and accessories: Should it be a new dress watch, or should you consider a used watch? When buying used watches, it's important to pay attention to their condition. It's also important to consider that watches with complete accessories (box, papers, certificates, etc.) are easier to resell and fetch more money.
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Price: How much can you invest in this new classic piece of jewelry for your wrist? Classic luxury watches can easily cost several thousand euros, and the upper limit is virtually unlimited. By considering your budget in advance, you can focus your watch search on products you can actually afford.
When it comes to the supplier from whom you purchase your luxury watch, the most important thing is its reliability. We recommend choosing an (online) retailer that enjoys a certain level of recognition and a good reputation in the industry. Purchasing from unknown, unestablished dealers who may lure you with extremely low prices is often not a good idea – after all, the fraudulent sale of fake watches remains a widespread problem. To ensure our customers' safety, we thoroughly check the authenticity of all our watches before they are listed in the shop. Therefore, HORANDO customers don't have to worry about fake watches.
Classics and bestsellers: examples and models
There are many classic watches, but only a few have earned the status of true icons among the classics. Below, we present five luxury timepieces that clearly stand out from the crowd with their quality, precision, and popularity:
Rolex Submariner
Whenever diving watches are discussed, sooner or later the Rolex Submariner comes up. This iconic Rolex is a sporty classic watch that boasts water resistance to 300 meters and a rotating bezel. Released in 1953, this cult watch was the first diving watch at the time to be water-resistant to depths of 100 meters. By the time the water resistance was increased to 300 meters in 1989, the model had long since won the acclaim of watch enthusiasts around the world.
Available with or without a date, the Submariner's design is characterized by sportiness and elegance. The blue or black dial features luminescent hands, with the hour hand in the shape of a Mercedes. Inside the robust stainless steel case is a 3230 (No-Date) or 3235 (Date) movement from the Swiss manufacturer. These mechanical automatic calibers are known for their absolute precision and offer a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
With its distinctive sporty touch, the Submariner is an appealing choice for anyone who wants to wear a classic that exudes functionality and robustness without sacrificing elegance. This robust diver's watch can be worn with a suit or casual leisure outfit, accompanying its wearer with style throughout the day.
Patek Philippe Calatrava
With the Calatrava collection, Patek Philippe has created a masterpiece that is unparalleled. This classic watch, described by the manufacturer as "legendary simplicity," represents traditional watchmaking at its finest. The most classic versions combine white or yellow gold with a brown or black alligator leather strap and an ivory dial with elegant stick indices.
Since its introduction in the 1930s, the Calatrava has been a symbol of minimalist luxury and, in the eyes of many watch enthusiasts, a true epitome of classic elegance. Behind the dial, with a date at the 3 o'clock position, ticks a caliber 26-330 S C movement that performs its work with the utmost precision and reliability. The case diameters of the various references range from 35 to 39 millimeters, making the Calatrava an exquisite luxury watch for both men and women.
With its elegant yet pleasantly understated appearance, the Calatrava is an accessory that looks great with both evening wear and office attire. The simple design ensures that the watch blends seamlessly into any look, enhancing it with its recognizable quality.
Omega Speedmaster Professional
When talking about classic watches, one can't help but mention the Omega Speedmaster Professional. This successful watch from the Swiss manufacturer made history when it accompanied the astronauts of the manned Apollo program to the moon. Its participation in the Apollo 11 mission earned it the legendary nickname "Moonwatch" and made it one of the most famous men's watches of all time. The manufacturer can be particularly proud that the Speedmaster Professional was the only candidate watch at the time that met NASA's requirements for manned space flight—an impressive achievement.
The Omega Speedmaster Professional is now available in various versions with diameters ranging from 38 to 44.25 millimeters. In its most classic version, the stainless steel "Moonwatch" features a black or white dial, a stainless steel bracelet, three subdials, and a sporty tachymeter scale on the bezel. Known for its precision, the "Moonwatch" chronograph is powered by a hand-wound Omega 3861 movement with a 50-hour power reserve.
The design of the "Moon Watch" as produced today bears an unmistakable resemblance to the exterior of the reference that visited the moon. Clean lines as indices, the soberly designed bezel, the polished dial, and the simple chronograph pushers emphasize the sporty functionality of the stainless steel astronaut's watch, while the famous "Speedmaster" lettering evokes nostalgic feelings and references the impressive history of the classic Omega chronograph.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was developed with a practical idea in mind: How can the crystal and dial of a watch be protected from the knocks and bumps of polo matches? Jaeger-LeCoultre answered this question with a reversible case that offers ideal protection for the crystal and dial during the match. Even though this special feature is of little importance for everyday use, it has helped the Reverso—in combination with its stylish Art Deco aesthetic and timeless design—gain great popularity. So, we are dealing with a classic watch here, albeit a model that clearly deviates from the mainstream due to its functional nature.
Not only its reversibility, but also its shape makes the Reverso case an extravagant eye-catcher. Unlike most dress watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre opts for a rectangular case design rather than a round one, which flows harmoniously, almost fluidly, into the genuine leather or precious metal strap. Some models come with an artistic secret: turning the metal case over reveals a lovingly crafted enamel work of art. Other models can be customized with engravings or lacquer finishes upon request.
With the Reverso collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre skillfully strikes a balance between artistic exceptionalism and timeless classicism. These reversible watches, made of stainless steel or rose gold, possess charming quirks that dare to stand out, yet are so refined and down-to-earth in their overall appearance that you'll never tire of them. The reliable movement and the diversity of the collection further underline why this dress watch has been a beloved classic since the 1930s.
Cartier Tank
Inspired by the military tanks of the First World War, the Cartier Tank has captivated watch fans with its beauty and elegance since 1917. Water-resistant to 3 bar, the luxury watch visually embodies the tradition of French chic: Roman numerals, a grained or pearled dial, a sapphire cabochon on the crown, and color-coordinated blued hands bring the vision of a maximally aesthetic wristwatch to life.
The Cartier Tank's flat, almost delicate profile, with its elegant lugs, lends itself to straps made of alligator leather or precious metal, and its rectangular, sleek shape itself. The case's construction doesn't overshadow the dial, but rather functions as a complementary piece, allowing the dial and case to unfold their full visual impact together.
In short, one could say: The Cartier Tank combines simple elegance with artisanal refinement and is a classic watch whose high quality and precision are apparent to the observer at first glance.
Care and maintenance of classic watches
Every high-quality watch deserves proper care. Combined with regular professional maintenance, watch care extends the lifespan of a watch and keeps it in good condition, increasing its resale value. If you follow these five basic care tips, you're doing everything right:
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Case cleaning: Cases made of stainless steel and other common metals can be easily wiped with a soft cloth and dried. If the watch is water-resistant to at least 50 meters, the case can also be briefly rinsed under running water.
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Cleaning bracelets: Link bracelets made of stainless steel, gold, and other metals are best cleaned with a soft, damp cloth and a brush that can reach even the gaps. Water should be used sparingly on leather bracelets. Light soiling can be removed with a damp cotton cloth without soap. The dampened area should then be allowed to air dry.
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Leather care: To keep the leather bracelet soft and supple, it should be cared for occasionally with some leather care (e.g. leather grease).
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Storage: To avoid scratches and other damage, as well as dust accumulation, luxury watches should be stored in lockable, soft-lined cases. For models with automatic movements, watch winders are a good option, as they also ensure that the timepiece doesn't stop running.
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Maintenance intervals: Opinions differ on how often luxury watches should be serviced. Maintenance intervals of two to six years are common. However, the general rule is that whenever defects are noticed, maintenance should be performed as soon as possible. Even seemingly minor defects can quickly lead to major consequential damage to the movement.
The market for classic watches
Classic watches never go out of style and, accordingly, enjoy consistently high demand, both then and now. This is naturally reflected in the market. Rare, hard-to-find classic models from IWC, A. Lange & Söhne, Omega, Rolex, and others are sometimes traded on the secondary market well above list price. On the one hand, this means buyers have to invest time and potentially pay a higher price to acquire their favorite model. On the other hand, the imbalance between supply and demand also makes these watches interesting investments with attractive appreciation potential.
Classic wristwatches are an exciting option, especially for investors with a long-term perspective. Many classic luxury models from established brands remain extremely stable on the market and promise substantial returns over the years. While investing in watches always involves a certain amount of risk, women's and men's timepieces with classic designs are significantly lower-risk investments compared to trendy products that follow current fashions.
The wrist as a stage: fit and comfort
When it comes to the design of a dress watch, not only the look but also the fit is crucial. After all, how well a watch fits the wearer's wrist determines how comfortable it is to wear. In addition to the strap, which should fit snugly against the wrist without pinching or scratching, the watch case is of paramount importance. Since men's wrists are generally wider than women's, the case size of a men's watch can be larger. A women's watch, on the other hand, should be tailored to a narrower wrist, which is why a smaller diameter is recommended.
The bracelet's length should be adjusted to fit the wrist so that it neither slips around annoyingly nor feels uncomfortably tight. Many modern bracelet designs allow the wearer to adjust the length independently within certain limits. Larger adjustments to link and Milanese bracelets made of stainless steel and similar materials must be performed by a jeweler or watchmaker. This small extra effort is well worth it. After all, bracelets made of stainless steel and other metals only sit comfortably on the wrist if they are adjusted correctly.
Famous watches and their owners
The clean lines, charming design, and, above all, timelessness are advantages of classic watches that even the stars of this world appreciate. For example, French actor Vincent Cassel once completed his red carpet outfit in Cannes with a Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie, which, with its white dial, circular shape, and fine indices, exudes a truly classic look. John Travolta is a fan of an even greater classic. As brand ambassador, he presented the Breitling Chronomat 44 chronograph, which he counts among his favorites. And anyone who followed the film "Short Trial" closely might have spotted a Tutima Grand Classic Chronograph on Al Pacino's wrist. The luxury timepiece, whose classic design is already emphasized by its name, combines sleek stainless steel with a black dial.
The list of celebrity wearers of classic watches could be endless, but we'd like to keep it short and focus on an interesting question: Do celebrities like to wear classic watches, or does their popularity contribute to a watch's classic status in the first place? It's probably both. On the one hand, classic watches cater to a wide range of tastes and represent a stylish choice for celebrities. On the other hand, it demonstrates the positive impact on a watch's popularity when a celebrity wears it on their wrist.
Conclusion: Why classic watches are always a good choice
Whether made of stainless steel or gold, with a polished or finished dial, with a quartz or mechanical movement: all great classic watches share a timeless quality. It is the result of sophisticated, simple designs with clean lines, timeless precision, and pure sophistication. So, anyone looking for a luxury watch that will delight with style and quality for decades or even centuries should definitely look among the classics.