Rolex Cosmograph Daytona - In the footsteps of a classic

Rolex has delighted the watch world with an impressive number of models over the years – but one in particular still stands out: the Cosmograph Daytona . The timepiece made its debut in 1963 and was specifically tailored to the needs of professional racing drivers. The highly reliable chronograph movement and tachymeter bezel make it possible to measure average speeds of up to 400 kilometers per hour. Rolex has always placed great value on precision and reliability – qualities that are also of great importance in the world of motorsports. This combination initially formed the basis for the Cosmograph Daytona. The model has now become one of the most famous watches in the world and a continually sought-after collector's item. Anyone who knows Rolex knows the Daytona – but how did all this hype come about?

The right strategy

After a rather sober sales launch, demand for the Daytona finally increased when Hollywood star Paul Newman showed up wearing an early version of the watch, which he received as a gift from his wife. The successful actor with the deep blue eyes was also a racing driver—hence the words "Drive Carefully" engraved on the caseback of his watch.

In the 1980s, when mechanical watches were generally still relatively affordable, this fortunate "advertisement" made this watch a must-have. The so-called "Paul Newman dial" of this version is known for its minute track with seconds scale on the edge of the dial, as well as the contrasting color of the dial and the three totalizers. In the 1980s, collectors nicknamed this watch "Paul Newman" after its famous wearer. Daytonas of this type can now fetch up to 100,000 euros at auction, but there are significant differences between the individual pieces. The original Newman watch, for example, has a white dial with black totalizers and large, easy-to-read numerals in the Art Deco style. The second version has smaller, simpler numerals in the subdials and is "only" worth between 30,000 and 40,000 euros. The price curve for such models has generally been steep: At the end of the 1980s, examples were still being auctioned for around €3,000 to €4,000. Their value has therefore increased almost tenfold in the meantime. However, that's just peanuts compared to the sum that the Daytona that Paul Newman himself wore at auction in New York in October 2017: The auction house Phillips achieved a record price of $17,752,500 (approximately €15,228,095) for the original with the reference 6239 after just 12 minutes. This makes this Rolex the most expensive wristwatch in the world. However, one should be careful when purchasing such a Daytona, because a standard model in particular is often turned into a "Paul Newman." Experts even believe that there are currently more fake than genuine Newman dials in circulation. Furthermore, even complete watches are often not originals, but simply "put together" from various individual parts. Therefore, these watches should only be purchased from well-known auction houses and trustworthy dealers. In addition, an inspection directly with the manufacturer is recommended.

There is another reason for the enduring success of the Rolex Daytona: the watch had already become a legend back then thanks to a clever marketing strategy. Initially, around 500 pieces were produced annually, some of which often became shelf warmers for a long time. Since other manufacturers had long since established themselves in the chronograph market, it was difficult for Rolex to do the same. But the company knew exactly how to maximize interest in the model: After a short time, it brought nowhere near the number of Daytonas onto the market that could have actually been sold – and this was purely intentional. Demand was thus always far greater than supply – thus ensuring the timepiece received worldwide attention. More and more people wanted to be among the lucky few and own one of these highly sought-after pieces. You can think what you will of this artificial scarcity – Rolex's plan back then worked, and the exclusivity made the Daytona the icon it is today. But this aspect is, of course, not the only reason for the watch's enduring success. Rolex's generally excellent image remains a significant factor. After all, the luxury brand has worked hard to achieve this over the years—so it deserves it!

Back to the roots

At its launch, the Cosmograph Daytona didn't yet bear either of its two names. Although the first of the two had been reserved for Rolex since 1953, the dial of the reference 6234 (produced between 1955 and 1961) simply read "Chronograph." Today, these "pre-Daytonas" are a veritable gold mine: €20,000 is just the starting price for one of the rare models with a stainless steel case and a silver or black dial.

Later, the watch was finally given its official name. And it doesn't come from nowhere: Daytona Beach in Florida has been hosting motor racing since 1903. One of the most famous drivers there was Sir Malcolm Campbell, who beat his own world records every year during the 1930s in his "Bluebird." As the British record holder, Campbell received a great deal of international attention at the time. To Rolex's delight, the racing star regularly wore a Daytona on his wrist—even during races—bringing the brand a wealth of positive publicity.

The race track ran partly along the beach and partly along the waterfront. It wasn't until 1959 that the first races were held entirely on asphalt. The new "Daytona International Speedway" was, at the time, the fastest track in the USA and one of the very first "superspeedways." Three years later, Rolex began to be directly involved in the competition and became its official timekeeper. In 1963, the Cosmograph with reference 6239 was released, which was given the nickname "Daytona" that same year to emphasize its connection to racing. From that point on, the first-place finisher in the race received not only a trophy but also a Rolex Cosmograph. At first, the name was only immortalized on the dial of watches specifically intended for the American market. Over time, however, the lettering was adopted for all watches, already in the form we know it today: semicircular, in red letters, above the totalizer at six o'clock.

In 1965, Rolex switched to screw-down pushers, which provided ideal sealing for the Daytona and the Oyster models. The improved water resistance was also noted on the dial, and "Oyster" was added to the "Cosmograph" lettering. The last manually wound models were finally produced from 1971 to 1988, one variant of which is particularly valuable today: In 2013, the auction house Christie's managed to secure almost one million Swiss francs for it – an absolute record sum. From 1988 onwards, the mechanical watch was essentially a relic of the past, as quartz technology had long since taken over. Rolex also decided to abandon this trend and continue producing the Daytona as an automatic watch. The movement, however, was not an in-house production, but a creation from Zenith: Rolex reworked the competitor's well-known El Primero movement and called it "Caliber 4030." The famous rings around the totalizers were also introduced, which have been retained to this day, and the Daytona's case was also enlarged from 36 millimeters to 40 millimeters in diameter. Over time, demand for the sporty chronograph continued to grow, and waiting times of up to three years were no longer uncommon.

At the turn of the millennium, Rolex presented the Daytona with its own in-house movement for the first time: The caliber 4130, which is still used today, features over 44 jewels, a power reserve of 72 hours, and the signature Kif shock protection for the balance and escape wheel. A vertical clutch now also enables the smooth starting of the stopwatch seconds hand. The chronograph functions are controlled by a column wheel, as with its predecessor from Zenith. The design has also changed slightly with this development: the running seconds hand has moved from nine to six o'clock, and the hands of the minute and hour counters are positioned slightly above the central axis. In addition, Rolex certified the new automatic models as COSC chronometers and displayed this on the dial as well: Since 2015, the inscription no longer just "Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona" but also "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified." There's also a new internal precision standard: The fully assembled watch undergoes a series of rigorous Rolex tests. The requirements are reportedly more than twice as stringent as those of the COSC. It also comes with a full five-year international warranty.

The Next Generation

At Baselworld 2016, Rolex presented two new stainless steel versions of the popular classic: The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is available with a white or black dial, with the company continuing to focus on strong contrast for perfect legibility. New, however, are the black subdials and the black Cerachrom monobloc ceramic bezel. This is a homage to the 1965 Daytona version, whose black bezel was made of Plexiglas. The price for the new versions is around 11,300 euros each.

In 2017, Rolex introduced the Daytona in yellow, white, and Everose gold, retaining the typical characteristics. Current starting prices for the version with an Oysterflex bracelet are approximately €25,000 for yellow gold, €26,150 for white gold, and €26,150 for Everose gold. Models with precious metal bracelets carry an additional €7,000 to €8,000 premium. Those seeking even more luxurious and extravagant pieces should take a closer look at this year's Baselworld star. Rolex presented an extra-precious Daytona model with a diamond dial there. The case of the rose gold watch is set with 56 diamonds, and instead of the tachymeter scale, 36 rainbow-colored sapphires adorn the bezel, and the hour indices have also been replaced by 11 sapphires. Despite the precious stones, no expense has been spared on functionality: The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters, the hour and minute hands feature blue luminous material, and the bracelet features a high-quality Oysterlock safety clasp. This gem is sure to impress even the most discerning Rolex fan.

Especially after the last few decades, it has to be said that Rolex continues to come up with something new for the Cosmograph Daytona, pleasantly surprising fans and collectors – while still remaining true to the essence of this classic. Certainly no easy task for over half a century. But the Swiss have managed to strike a balance between innovation and consistency and not disappoint their fans. Die-hard Rolex fans have even developed their own technical jargon with special terms and expressions for some time now: For example, when someone talks about a “racing dial,” they are referring to a dial version of the model in white gold. This version was produced between 2009 and 2016. When the term “inverted six” is used, they are referring to a dial variant of the automatic models. Until the mid-1990s, the six in the hour counter was aligned towards the center, i.e., inverted. But is anyone surprised by the fuss surrounding this model series? The Daytona is a true phenomenon and a timepiece that has become an integral part of the watch industry. And so it will likely remain with us for a long time to come as a prime example of the finest Swiss watchmaking.

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