Mechanical Watches Insider Tip 2024

They are based on complex technology, are entirely in the spirit of traditional watchmaking, and delight watch connoisseurs with more than just their sophisticated movements: Mechanical watches have always dominated the watch industry and never go out of style. In this article, we explain the functionality and historical background of the mechanical wristwatch, provide practical tips for purchasing, and reveal which watches with mechanical movements we consider to be among the "insider tips" of 2024.

The most important things in brief

This article deals in detail with the following topics related to mechanical watches:

• Functionality and craftsmanship: Mechanical watch movements are based on the tensioning of a spring, which, as it releases its tension evenly, sets the movement's wheels in motion. The complex interplay of the numerous components required for this process fascinates watch enthusiasts around the world as an expression of the finest craftsmanship. Our modern mechanical movements are the result of centuries of achievements in watchmaking and thus follow a long tradition.

• Quality features and purchasing criteria: When purchasing a mechanical watch, attention should always be paid to meticulous craftsmanship. Buyers should also consider in advance which features (e.g., complications, material, and winding method) they value in a watch.

• Popular Brands and Models: Among the many watch brands that have rightfully enjoyed great success with their mechanical watches are Rolex , Patek Philippe , Audemars Piguet , Hublot , Panerai , and Jaeger-LeCoultre . The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional and the Cartier Tank Must de Cartier are excellent examples of mechanical watches that have achieved legendary status.

What are mechanical watches?

While seasoned watch enthusiasts naturally know exactly how a mechanical watch works, beginners and newcomers to the world of luxury watches often struggle to properly explain how it works. Therefore, we'll take a look at what goes on inside mechanical watches that makes the hands move.

A mechanical movement consists of numerous components whose interaction results in a smooth movement of the hands. The process begins with the winding mechanism, which—for example, by turning the crown on the case—tensions the spring in its barrel. This stores energy in the spring. The minute wheel, which is directly connected to the barrel, prevents the spring from immediately unwinding and releasing all its energy at once. This wheel moves the minute hand. The first wheel, in turn, engages the counter-rotating third wheel, which serves as a "translator" for the subsequent seconds wheel. The gear train is complemented by the hour wheel, positioned slightly to the side, with its twelvefold slower rotation speed.

The reliable display of time through the smooth movement of the hands is ultimately only possible thanks to two additional components of the movement: the escapement and the balance, which together form the so-called oscillating system of the watch. These two elements ensure that the hands for the hours, minutes, and seconds do not move randomly, but precisely as intended. Simply put, they achieve this by the back-and-forth oscillating balance briefly interrupting the braking escapement halfway through each oscillation. At precisely this moment, the second hand can advance.

Let's go back to where it all began and look at the winding mechanism. Winding a watch—that is, tensioning the spring—can be done either automatically or manually. Manually wound models must be wound by hand using the crown, while an automatic watch winds itself through the movement of the wrist while wearing the timepiece.

Incidentally, quartz watches are often considered the counterpart to mechanical watches. Their movements are far less complex, as they are essentially based on a battery that uses electrical impulses to vibrate a quartz stone. This generates the energy needed to move the hands.

History and development of mechanical watches

The first pocket watch with a mechanical movement, based on the technical expertise of the locksmith Peter Hehnlein, was created in the 15th century and nicknamed the "Nuremberg Egg." From this major milestone, it would take another 300 years before the first mechanical wristwatch saw the light of day. This was created by none other than Abraham Louis Breguet, who thus went down in history as the inventor of mechanical watch movements.

The historical path of mechanical calibers has been shaped by various manufacturers and their achievements. In Germany, Uhrenwerke Ruhla, founded in 1891 and now part of the POINTtec company, is one of the most well-known manufacturers of watch movements. The Swiss manufacturer ETA SA, Seiko, and the Japanese company Miyota have also made groundbreaking contributions to the further development and establishment of mechanical wristwatches – and they continue to do so today.

Craftsmanship and tradition in the manufacture of mechanical watches

It's a tradition in the watch world that watch manufacturers pride themselves primarily on the movements they produce. This is no surprise, since the mechanical movement of a watch is its heart and the component that most clearly demonstrates the manufacturer's expertise. Precision, the pursuit of perfection, a spirit of innovation, attention to detail, and, last but not least, a wealth of knowledge and skill in the exciting field of watchmaking are the ingredients needed to build a truly masterful caliber.

The movements of luxury watches , which are painstakingly handcrafted, are complex works of art that become even more fascinating with each additional complication. In addition to the construction of the intricate movements, the so-called finissage also plays a significant role in production. This term encompasses various techniques for refining watch movements. These include, for example, engraving and grinding various surfaces as well as polishing or gilding individual components. Popular techniques include guilloché, perlage, and sunburst. These lovingly crafted decorations add the finishing touch to these technically sophisticated movements and transform them into dignified representatives of traditional craftsmanship.

The importance of the movement: automatic vs. manual winding

The biggest question that arises when considering a watch with a mechanical movement is how it is wound. As already mentioned, there are mechanical watches with manual winding and models with automatic winding. With manual winding , turning the crown rotates an attached spindle, which then winds the spring in the barrel. With automatic movements, it is different: Here, a rotor whose center of gravity is located away from the center of the watch performs this work. Whenever the watch is moved on the wearer's wrist, the rotor starts to spin and winds the spring, while the slip clutch prevents it from overwinding. In other words, the spring is not overwinded, even if the automatic watch moves a lot.

During periods when the automatic watch is not being wound, the mainspring begins to unwind. The time between full winding and the watch stopping with the mainspring completely unwound is called the power reserve. It indicates how long the watch will continue to run without being worn or manually wound.

The greatest advantage of automatic watches is obvious: If you wear them regularly or store them in a watch winder, you don't need to wind them. Manually wound models, on the other hand, have an undeniable charm, reminding collectors and enthusiasts of earlier times and are especially sought-after as collector's items.

Advantages and disadvantages of mechanical watches

In the watch industry, the movements used to power watches remain a hotly debated topic. Quartz watches or mechanical watches - which timepiece is better? The answer: It depends on what the wearer personally values ​​in a watch. Mechanical watches are considered to be extremely durable and reliable. With proper care, a high-quality mechanical watch will remain the reliable timekeeper it was when new, even after many years. However, deviations of a few minutes per month are not uncommon for mechanical watches, whereas quartz watches generally only exhibit monthly deviations of up to 20 seconds. In terms of accuracy, quartz models therefore have the edge.

Another advantage of quartz watches: They are lightweight and require very little maintenance. Due to their more complex construction, mechanical watches require a little more attention and should be serviced regularly. Quartz watches are also often slightly cheaper to purchase than mechanical watches. However, many watch enthusiasts agree: it's worth paying a higher price for mechanical models. The craftsmanship that goes into every mechanical movement alone justifies the price difference. Mechanical timepieces—whether automatic or hand-wound—reflect the tradition of watchmaking and therefore exert a tremendous fascination on tech-savvy watch enthusiasts.

The fact that mechanical watches run without batteries is also an advantage. As an owner, you don't have to worry about changing batteries or about batteries running out if the watch isn't worn for an extended period. However, you do have to keep winding them in mind. If automatic watches aren't worn, or if hand-wound models aren't wound in time before the power reserve runs out, they stop working and need to be reset.

Ultimately, both quartz and mechanical timepieces each have their own significant advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before purchasing a new timepiece, watch enthusiasts should definitely familiarize themselves with the characteristics of the different movements, compare them, and consider what they personally value in a watch. Price-conscious buyers who are bothered by every second's deviation are more likely to opt for models with quartz movements, while watch enthusiasts who value tradition, craftsmanship, and aesthetics are well-advised to choose a mechanical (automatic) watch.

Quality features and criteria for mechanical watches

Buyers should keep a few aspects in mind when purchasing mechanical (automatic) models to ensure they choose a watch of the highest quality that best suits their needs. These "top 5 purchasing criteria" play a particularly important role:

1. Movement and complications: Do you prefer automatic or hand-wound watches? And what is the minimum power reserve requirement? In addition to these questions, buyers should consider which complications (e.g., date, chronograph function, or second time zone) their new watch should feature.

2. Materials and craftsmanship: Do you specifically want a watch made of stainless steel, gold, titanium, or even platinum? Each material should be carefully crafted, which you can usually rely on with models from major brands.

3. Design: Which watches impress with their design? While your favorite model should certainly be visually appealing, the design also influences the practical use of the watch. For example, you should find out whether the strap on the particular model is interchangeable.

4. Watch brands: Do you have a preferred watch brand, such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Tissot, or Patek Philippe? Narrowing down your selection to models from specific manufacturers makes finding the ideal watch much easier.

5. Value for money: Which price segment fits your available budget? We recommend paying attention not just to the price alone, but also to the value for money. With truly good products, the price is compelling not just because it's as low as possible, but because you get good quality for your money.

The larger the watch brand and the more the model falls into the "luxury" category, the more cautious prospective buyers should be regarding authenticity and potential counterfeits. They should, for example, be alert if an otherwise expensive model from a renowned brand is offered at a strikingly low price or without the corresponding documentation. Those who have little knowledge of authenticating watches should seek professional advice before purchasing or purchase from a dealer who can expertly handle this process for them.

Popular brands and models of mechanical watches 2024

The market offers a diverse range of mechanical watches . Especially in the higher price segment, buyers are faced with a broad selection of high-quality (automatic) watches. We would like to introduce some of the most popular and well-known mechanical luxury watches from successful brands in more detail below:

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional

Inspired by the design of the timepieces that accompanied the astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is a true icon of the watch world. Equipped with a small seconds subdial, chronograph hand, and 30-minute and 12-hour counters, the watch is powered by the hand-wound Omega 3861 caliber and boasts a 50-hour power reserve. Visually, the Moonwatch is instantly recognizable by the red highlights on the dial and the characteristic tachymeter scale on the bezel. In addition to the classic stainless steel models with steel, leather, or nylon straps, the extravagant bicolor versions with elegant gold elements on the dial and strap enjoy great popularity.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony hand-wound

Vacheron Constantin 's Patrimony watches are the dream come true for every watch lover with a penchant for traditional masterpieces with understated, classic designs. Finely crafted leather straps meet a flat, circular case that houses a thoroughly elegant dial. The most technically simple version features the hand-wound caliber 1440, while the more complicated versions with a perpetual calendar and moon phase display are powered by the automatic caliber 1120/3 QP/1. Thus, the Patrimony caters to the needs of both those with a penchant for hand-wound watches and those who prefer automatics.

Hublot Big Bang One Click

Large visible screws, a striking case, and a powerful automatic caliber with a 50-hour power reserve: that's the Big Bang One Click from Hublot. This striking automatic watch, with a diameter of 33 or 39 millimeters, appeals primarily to watch-loving women. This may be due in part to the diamond-studded bezel, but also to the contrasting design. Because the Big Bang One Click is a true contrast between opposites. The sparkling gemstones and the satin-finished steel and gold stand in stark contrast to the solid case shape and the functional rubber strap. It may not be to everyone's taste, but one thing is certain: a Hublot Big Bang One Click model attracts all eyes.

Cartier Tank Must de Cartier

With its rectangular case and Roman numerals on the simple dial, the Cartier Tank has long since become a legend. In the Must de Cartier version, which is available in three different sizes, a reliable automatic caliber brings the watch to life. Upon closer inspection, the small date display at the 6 o'clock position soon catches your eye. This is pleasantly integrated into the dial and enhances the timepiece without demanding attention. Available with both a leather strap and a precious metal bracelet, the Cartier Tank Must de Cartier watches – whether new or vintage – possess a very special charm. This is certainly one reason why the famous watches from the Cartier brand have transcended the test of time and always seem to be on trend.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815

Looking for a watch with an extra dose of classic elegance? Then the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 collection is worth a closer look. This product line is entirely dedicated to tradition, and its name refers to the birth year of the brand's founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange. The sense of tradition is evident in the design of these elegant models, for example, the blued hands and the "Chemin de fer" minute track. The L051.1 mechanical movement also features traditional components, such as hand-engraved balance pistons and screwed gold chatons.

Ulysse Nardin Executive Diver X Skeleton

The Diver X Skeleton watches from Ulysse Nardin are exciting reinterpretations of the traditional diving watch, whose design showcases the boldness of extravagance that characterizes the manufacturer. The watch combines the sporty character of the Ulysse Nardin Diver with the technical inner workings of the Blast Skeleton. The result is a solid titanium sports watch with automatic winding, a 72-hour power reserve, and an intricate skeletonization that makes it an absolute eye-catcher.

NOMOS Glashütte Orion 33

Style-conscious ladies seeking a delicate watch with a mechanical movement will find what they're looking for in the Orion 33 from NOMOS Glashütte. Thanks to its small case diameter of 33 centimeters and its refined design, the watch with its hand-wound caliber cuts a fine figure even on delicate wrists without appearing bulky or heavy. Combined with the soft calfskin suede strap, the delicate cornflower blue hands, and the wafer-thin indices on the cream-colored dial, the Orion 33 perfectly demonstrates that mechanical watches can also shine in soft, gentle designs.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute

Originally developed for polo players, the Reverso from Jaeger-LeCoultre has a very special feature: a reversible case. The Tribute version presents the watch in its usual luxurious style. This automatic watch for men and women stands out from the crowd with its rectangular dial, which flows harmoniously into the bracelet, and is available with various optional complications. For example, there are chronograph models, as well as models with a small seconds hand and a calendar.

Panerai Luminor

The Panerai Luminor is a watch that combines precision, exceptionality, and robustness. At the heart of the classic "Base" version with a rubber strap is the automatic in-house caliber P.6000. This is a 110-part, manually wound movement with a full three-day power reserve. The case and case back are made of stainless steel and frame a streamlined dial with luminous hands, emphasizing the sporty appeal of this timepiece, which is water-resistant to 10 bar.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Chronograph

Anyone who enjoys sporty chronographs with automatic movements and is looking for a high-quality entry-level watch shouldn't miss the American Classic Intra-Matic watch from Hamilton. This model for men and women houses the H-31 caliber under its elegant case – a chronograph caliber known for its reliability and accuracy. In addition to the stylish steel or leather straps, the modern tachymeter scale, and the skillfully placed date display, the American Classic Intra-Matic scores points with its extremely fair prices, something not every Swiss manufacturer can match.

Care and maintenance of mechanical watches

The fact is: Mechanical watches require care to function reliably over the long term. It's advisable to have watches with mechanical (automatic) movements serviced every few years. During this process, the caliber is checked for any defects, which can then, ideally, be rectified before they cause further damage. Regular winding of the watch is also recommended. Automatic models require this by wearing the watch or storing it in a watch winder; timepieces with hand-wound calibers must be wound manually using the crown.

When it comes to cleaning, mechanical automatic watches differ only slightly from quartz watches. It's usually sufficient to occasionally wipe the watches with a soft cloth and clean link bracelets with fine brushes. Leather straps, on the other hand, benefit from special leather care products that keep them supple. To avoid scratches, the timepieces should be stored on soft surfaces after use. Watch winders, fabric-lined watch boxes, and the original boxes are sometimes suitable for this purpose.

Investment potential and value retention of mechanical watches

Mechanical watches from renowned watch brands such as Rolex, Cartier, TAG Heuer, Patek Philippe, Tissot, and Audemars Piguet generally retain their value on the market. This makes them an attractive investment option for investors. However, not every watch necessarily increases in value and price just because it features a mechanical (automatic) movement and is produced by a renowned brand. Therefore, it is always advisable to examine the past performance of specific models, compare them, and seek expert advice if necessary.

Among the factors that can influence the value of a watch over time is, above all, availability. Models that are offered in large quantities on the secondary market and can be purchased virtually anytime with just a few clicks tend to trade at a lower price relative to their list price than watches that have a certain rarity value. For example, it is often observed that watches change hands at higher prices when a watch brand discontinues production or announces upfront that the respective watch will only be produced in limited quantities.

Of course, it's not just the watch itself that influences the resale price, but also its condition. Timepieces that show signs of everyday wear or that no longer include all accessories and documentation will not fetch the highest price. For this reason, it's worth taking good care of these expensive products and keeping the accompanying documents and original box safe.

Buying advice and tips for purchasing a mechanical watch

High-quality watches from successful watch brands come at a price. Therefore, their purchase should be carefully considered. But how do you find the perfect mechanical watch? First, we'd like to point out the important purchasing criteria and quality features that have already been discussed in detail in this article. Furthermore, individual preferences also play a role, which buyers can consider by asking the following questions:

• When will the watch be used (e.g. everyday life, sports, office or special occasions) and which outfits should it match?

• Should the dial have a specific color?

• Do you prefer a delicate, delicate or a solid model?

• Does the watch have to be waterproof?

• What material should the bracelet be made of?

• Are Roman or Arabic numerals preferred?

• Does an embellishment with gemstones or special cuts on the dial suit your personal style?

Knowing exactly what you're looking for is half the battle when buying a watch. The other half is getting quotes and making sure you buy from a reputable dealer. After all, it's well known that there are some black sheep among watch dealers. If you're not purchasing a watch directly from the manufacturer, caution is advised. Counterfeits can be identified by, among other things, discrepant information in the documents, inconsistent serial numbers and references, and defects in the workmanship of the dial, case, hands, etc. If you want to play it safe, the easiest way to get a new watch is through a trusted dealer who conscientiously authenticates their watches. At HORANDO , we verify the authenticity of every single watch in our range, thus reliably protecting our customers from making bad purchases.

Current trends and innovations in mechanical watches

Although mechanical watch movements are based on a long tradition, they are constantly evolving. Every major watch brand—from Rolex and Omega to Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Tissot—continuously strives to optimize their watches, striving for contemporary changes and advancements in calibers and design. This also includes the development of new materials. Rolex, for example, now manufactures bezels from Cerachrom, a scratch-resistant, color-fast ceramic material. Rolex also pioneered the innovative evolution of the escapement. The Chronergy escapement is characterized by its insensitivity to magnetic fields and achieves approximately 15% greater efficiency.

Audemars Piguet has been just as imaginative in recent times. The brand has focused on flat cases, impressively proving that grand complications and sleek designs are not mutually exclusive. The 2022 Royal Oak anniversary model is equipped with the caliber 2968 with a flying tourbillon—a movement that measures just 3.4 millimeters in height.

Time and again, established and emerging watch brands venture to create watches with designs that clearly deviate from the norm. They achieve this, for example, by experimenting with different case shapes, deliberately "misplacing" individual components on the dial, or implementing concepts that initially sound quite adventurous. For example, the U-Boat brand produces watches filled with oil beneath the crystal, so that a characteristic air bubble is always visible.

Across all brands, a trend toward a true joy of color can currently be observed. Some watch brands are releasing new additions to well-known collections that stand out with colorful straps and bold or even patterned dials. Where shades of white, black, gray, brown, and silver once predominated, splashes of color in green, blue, red, pink, orange, or yellow are increasingly appearing, giving the watches a modern, playful touch.

Style advice for mechanical watches

As fascinating as mechanical watches are on a technical level, for many people they are primarily one thing: a piece of jewelry for the wrist, meant to complement their outfit and express their personal style. If you approach a watch purchase with precisely this intention, the occasion for which the watch will be worn is particularly important.

If you plan to wear your luxury watch primarily to the office, where you're usually dressed in a jacket and shirt, skirt and blouse, or pantsuit, classic models—possibly with a practical date display—are a good choice. Women, for example, choose the elegant Rolex Datejust and usually base their choice of case material on the materials they wear with their other jewelry. However, it's also becoming increasingly popular to deliberately combine different precious metals. The old rule of thumb "gold with gold, silver with silver" is no longer mandatory. For example, the aforementioned stainless steel Datejust with a muted green dial can be beautifully worn with delicate yellow gold bracelets or a gold ring that picks up the dial color with an emerald or a rich green moldavite.

Men often want their favorite watch to have a certain sporty touch, even for everyday office wear. This is precisely what numerous diving watches and chronographs with mechanical movements offer. The best examples of watches that, despite their sporty design, can be worn perfectly with a classic office look are the Rolex Submariner , the Rolex GMT-Master II , the Tissot T-Sport , and the Nautilus from Patek Philippe . If you're looking for a watch with a traditional look for special occasions that undoubtedly deserves to be a status symbol, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 is an excellent choice, perhaps with a cognac-colored strap to match shoes and a belt in the same leather tone. Women will find the Patek Philippe Gondolo, with its diamond-studded dial and pearl strap, the ideal companion for grand occasions.

If you're primarily wearing a watch for sports or everyday wear, diamonds and pearls are generally overkill. In such cases, simple yet stylish mechanical timepieces are recommended, enhancing the casual look without being too obtrusive. For women, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual or Yacht-Master models with their small case diameters might be a good choice, while men can perfectly combine jeans and a T-shirt with a Hublot Classic Fusion , a Panerai Luminor, or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak .

Ultimately, choosing a mechanical watch is a very individual matter, one that shouldn't be bound by any rules or boundaries, but rather by your own personal preferences and values. The world of watches invites you to experiment, reinvent yourself, perfect your look with an exquisite watch, and discover how the most beautiful facets of your style can be highlighted and emphasized with a perfectly chosen timepiece.

Conclusion

Mechanical watches operate without batteries, feature complex, technically sophisticated movements, and are a testament to the tradition and impressive advances in watchmaking. While they are often somewhat more expensive than quartz watches, they are also considered extremely durable and often retain their value enormously. Thanks to the wide variety of mechanical watches that characterize the product ranges of renowned brands such as Rolex, Hublot, Hamilton, and Audemars Piguet, men and women with a wide variety of tastes and preferences can find something to suit their tastes.