Rolex and Mercedes: Two major names that have established themselves in different fields. While Rolex immediately brings to mind the luxury watch, Mercedes is inextricably linked with world-famous cars. When the two brand names appear in the same sentence, as is the case with Rolex Mercedes watches, it's easy to assume that the two luxury companies are collaborating. But that's a misconception! In fact, the Mercedes in the Rolex simply refers to a special hand shape reminiscent of the Mercedes star. In this article, we tell the story behind Rolex Mercedes timepieces, discuss the design in detail, and introduce various Rolex models with Mercedes hands.

The most important things in brief

This article details the following topics in more detail:

• Iconic Mercedes star design: A Rolex Mercedes is distinguished by its unique hands, whose design is reminiscent of the Mercedes star. This distinctive design was originally developed to prevent cracking in the radium coating.

• High-quality workmanship: All Rolex Mercedes models - be it the Rolex Submariner, the Explorer, the GMT-Master II or the Deepsea - are made from first-class materials and are constructed with such precision that they stand up to any comparison.

• Performance: Rolex Mercedes models show a historically stable increase in value, making them attractive options for investors interested in watches.

History of the Rolex Mercedes

The history of Mercedes design begins in the 1950s. At that time, Rolex was confronted with a problem: the radium luminous material on the hands, so important for diving watches and ensuring good legibility underwater, cracked if too large a surface was filled with it. The manufacturer therefore had to find a way to modify the originally intended large, solid circle at the tip of the hand in such a way that the luminous material surface was reduced. This was achieved by simply dividing the circle into three smaller areas, separated by discreet struts. Thus, the characteristic hand, with its strong resemblance to the Mercedes car brand logo, was born.

Another tidbit of knowledge: The name Mercedes in the context of Rolex's hand design has nothing to do with the swimmer Mercedes Gleitze. Although she wore an Oyster Perpetual from the Swiss manufacturer during her English Channel crossing, she was by no means the namesake or inspiration for the design of the hand.

The development of the Mercedes pointer: precision and symbolism

Almost a century ago, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, revolutionized the world of wristwatches with innovative designs and high precision. The idea of ​​the Mercedes hand arose for practical reasons when Rolex was looking for solutions to make the luminous material on the minute hand more durable under extreme conditions. The three-part tip not only ensured stability but quickly became one of the brand's most recognizable features.

An often-told myth claims that the famous swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to cross the English Channel, was the inspiration for the hand's name. While she was wearing a Rolex Perpetual during her crossing, the connection remains speculative. Rather, the focus was on a robust structure that could withstand a wide range of conditions.

Today, the design can be found in numerous Rolex watches, from the classic Submariner to the modern Explorer. Tritium as a luminous material ushered in a new era of legibility, which has been continually improved by precise testing bodies in Geneva. While brands like Benz, Maybach, and AMG market their vehicles as status symbols, the Rolex with Mercedes hands is considered by many to be the pinnacle of diving watches—a truly marvelous watch with innovative movement technologies. It's no wonder that Rolex's marketing ideas have proven successful for years, and that the brand inspires millions of people around the world—from racing and luxury watch communities like MBpassion to high-profile collectors.

The Mercedes star design

The Mercedes element, which is now used on many Rolex models, is a recognizable feature with great practical benefits. Thanks to the extensively integrated luminous material, it makes it easier to read the watch in adverse conditions—for example, underwater or at night. Furthermore, the unconventional hand design makes it easier for the wearer to distinguish the hour, minute, and second hands at a glance.

The shortened hour hand with the star is not only practical, but also visually appealing. Starting from the center of the dial, a short, straight connecting bar leads to the aforementioned circle, which is divided by thin struts into three equal triangular areas with rounded outer surfaces. A tapered end element sits atop the circle, giving the impression that the circle merely interrupts the shape of a perfectly ordinary, pointed hand. This creates a distinctive aesthetic with a sporty yet elegant character.

Recognizable features make luxury watches icons that can be instantly identified around the world. Therefore, it's only logical that Rolex retains the star design to this day, even though radium is no longer used for the luminous coating. The later use of tritium and the Chromalight coating used today rob the hand shape of its original practical purpose, but not its charm and fame.

Models and variants of the Rolex Mercedes

The selection of Rolex models with Mercedes hands is quite large, as the manufacturer has now integrated the famous star into a significant portion of its collections. These Rolex watches feature the memorable "vintage hand":

Submariner

The best example of a Rolex model for which the star-shaped hour hand is a perfect fit is the Rolex Submariner. This legendary diver's watch is one of the most successful Rolex models ever and is characterized by its high-contrast dial. The latest Rolex Submariner models (e.g., the Ref. 126610LV Submariner "Starbucks"), produced since 2020, boast a full 70 hours of power reserve, feature the Paraflex anti-shock system, and are powered by the modern in-house calibers 3235 (Rolex Submariner Date) and 3230 (Rolex Submariner No-Date).

Yacht Master

The Yacht-Master is a model with a bidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute graduations and a serrated outer surface for maximum grip. The Mercedes hand is particularly well-positioned on the simple, unfussy dials of this sporty timepiece, allowing it to unfold its visual impact without being distracted by too many other eye-catching features.

Sea-Dweller

Even though it's somewhat overshadowed by the prestigious Submariner diver's watch, the Sea-Dweller is definitely worth a closer look. Featuring a helium escape valve, Triplock crown, Cyclops magnifying glass above the date, and water resistance to 1,220 meters, this highly functional timepiece boasts a robust appearance that nevertheless doesn't lack obvious quality. The blue Chromalight luminous material on the indices and hands is just one of the sophisticated highlights the Sea-Dweller has to offer.

Deepsea

Designed for extreme depths, the Deepsea is the Rolex model aimed at diving professionals. It also features the blue luminous Chromalight mass and the star-shaped hour hand – a feature common to the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Deepsea. This functional measuring instrument accompanies professional divers to depths of 3,900 meters, features a date display at the 3 o'clock position, and sets new standards in the watch industry in terms of water resistance and durability.

Explorer

Compared to the Rolex Submariner, Deepsea, and Sea-Dweller, the Explorer presents itself as considerably more elegant. This model for outdoor enthusiasts and extreme sports enthusiasts features a comparatively slim case and is available starting at 36 millimeters in diameter, making it a great fit even on the delicate hands of active women. Regardless of the reference, the hands and indices are luminous blue, including the hour hand, which blends beautifully into the overall design.

GMT Master

With its two-tone Cerachrom bezel inlay, date display, and precise chronograph function, the GMT-Master II has captured the hearts of sports enthusiasts. What the Rolex Submariner is to divers, the GMT-Master II is to racing enthusiasts: a true icon. The wristwatch, which has received different nicknames depending on the reference (e.g., Ref. 116710BLNR "Batman," Ref. 126710BLRO "Pepsi," Ref. 126711CHNR "Root Beer," or Ref. 16710 "Coke"), earns its iconic status equally through its luxuriously sporty appearance and functionality that completely convinces even critics.

Air King

If the Submariner is the queen of the seas, the Air-King is the king of the skies. Featuring a Mercedes hour hand and green seconds hand, the model showcases a clear minute track on the dial and offers everything your heart desires high above the clouds. This includes a solid Oyster case and a chronometer-certified Caliber 3230 movement with a Parachrom hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve.

The dial and the hands

The dial of every Mercedes watch is the foundation upon which the extraordinary hour hand can shine. All of the models listed here – from the Rolex Submariner to the Deepsea to the Air-King – exhibit typical Rolex understated elegance and restraint. The muted, classic colors and smooth surfaces are adorned only by the occasional striking lettering (e.g., "Submariner" or "Air-King") and simply shaped indices.

The Swiss watch manufacturer likes to use contrasts to enhance readability, for example, placing white markers on dark dials. Combined with the luminous coating, this makes all the data and information the luxury watch is supposed to provide particularly easy to read.

The case and bezel

Depending on the model and collection, the watches with Mercedes hands are crafted from a variety of materials, including stainless steel, rose gold, white gold, or yellow gold. What all these materials have in common is their high quality and impeccable craftsmanship. The first-class craftsmanship is evident from afar in each case – a fact for which Rolex watches are valued worldwide.

When it comes to bezels, there are quite significant differences from model to model and from reference to reference. The GMT-Master II, for example, stands out with its two-tone Cerachrom bezel, the Yacht-Master's serrated outer bezel offers optimal grip, and the bezel of the iconic Rolex Submariner is sometimes eye-catching thanks to its vibrant colors (e.g., green for the Submariner Ref. 16610LV "Kermit" or blue for the Submariner Ref. 116619LB "Smurf").

The bracelet and the clasp

When purchasing a high-quality timepiece, the bracelets are also a consideration. The majority of the models presented here—whether Submariner, Sea-Dweller, or GMT-Master II—come standard with a precious metal Oyster bracelet and an Oysterlock clasp for quick donning and doffing. The combination of folding clasp and safety bar ensures secure wear while simultaneously offering high user-friendliness and maximum comfort. Added to this is the practical Glidelock system, which allows Rolex Submariners, Sea-Dwellers, and the like to be easily adjusted to the wearer's wrist after purchase.

Buying advice for a Rolex Mercedes

There are many answers to the question of what to look for when purchasing a luxury watch, because buying a watch is a matter that requires careful consideration and a good level of information. Below, we provide a brief overview of the most important information, details, and aspects to consider beforehand:

• Collection and reference: Which watch(s) are suitable? If you're looking for a very specific reference, the search may be difficult depending on availability, and you'll need a fair amount of patience. It can therefore be beneficial to maintain a certain degree of flexibility and spread your interest across several comparable models.

• Condition: Should it be a new or used luxury watch? Well-preserved vintage watches are often just as good as new ones and are sometimes offered at significantly lower prices.

• Vendor: Where can you buy a watch safely and at a fair price? We strongly recommend turning to reputable, established vendors who have already established a reputation in the industry and who are not susceptible to fraud. This could be a local specialist retailer or a reputable online retailer.

• Accessories: Is completeness important? As a general rule, it's advisable to purchase watches with as many original accessories as possible (box, warranty card, service history, papers, etc.), as missing accessories negatively impact the resale value.

• Budget: How much can you afford to invest in the model? It's a good idea to consider from the outset the maximum amount you can or want to spend on the Rolex you're looking for.

Those with little knowledge of authenticity checks and counterfeit detection should seek expert assistance when purchasing a watch. At Horando, we subject all our models to a rigorous authentication process, so our customers don't have to worry about potentially investing a lot of money in a fake Rolex.

Care and maintenance

A luxury item like a Rolex watch deserves proper care and regular maintenance, regardless of whether it's a vintage piece of jewelry or a new product. Metal cases and bracelets can be easily cleaned with a soft, damp cloth, or, if water-resistant to 50 meters or more, briefly held under running water and thoroughly dried. Leather straps occasionally benefit from appropriate leather care, for example, with special leather greases and creams.

The maintenance of luxury watches should be performed by a specialist who is familiar with the respective brand's models. For vintage timepieces, it is recommended to consult an expert with experience in servicing older watches.

The performance of the Rolex Mercedes

Since the term "Rolex Mercedes" does not refer to a specific reference, but rather to all models with a star-shaped hand, it is necessary to consider value development somewhat broader. If you look at the prices at which coveted references such as the Rolex Submariner, Air-King, Yacht-Master, GMT-Master II, and others are traded on the secondary market, it is striking that these are often significantly higher than the (former) list price. This is particularly true for references that are no longer produced in this form. But even current models with limited availability sometimes fetch substantial sums. Accordingly, a Rolex with a Mercedes design is a highly attractive option for anyone looking to purchase a watch as an investment.

It's also clear that the product condition of a luxury watch has a significant impact on its value. For example, a mint Rolex Submariner can be sold for significantly more than a diver's watch that's exactly the same but shows signs of wear. For watch collectors and investors who plan to resell their Rolex with star hands one day, it's extremely important to treat this luxury timepiece with care.

Famous wearers and cult status

Rolex watches with Mercedes hour hands are, of course, popular not only with the average watch enthusiast, but also among celebrities. The Rolex Submariner, for example, has been spotted on the wrists of Mark Wahlberg, Keanu Reeves, Jay-Z, and Jack Black. Robert Downey Jr. and Jason Statham like to complete their outfits with an exclusive GMT-Master II, and Will Ferrell appreciates his comparatively understated Explorer.

In addition to sightings on the world's red carpets and prominent social media images, the cinematic appearances of Rolex watches with star-shaped hour hands also contribute to further elevating the cult status of these luxury timepieces. Whether it's the Rolex Submariner as James Bond's precise accomplice or the GMT-Master Ref. 1675 on Marlon Brando's arm in Apocalypse Now: The Rolex with the Mercedes hand proves time and again that it belongs in the spotlight.

Conclusion

Rolex Mercedes watches are distinguished by their iconic design with their exceptional hour hand, their high-quality craftsmanship, and their historical significance. They are both a status symbol and a worthwhile investment, and are available in a wide range of models—from the Rolex Submariner to the Air-King to the Explorer. This means that virtually every watch enthusiast can find a personal favorite with a star-shaped hour hand.

Since Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary founder, established Rolex as a precise wristwatch, the brand has evolved steadily over the years. The combination of innovative luminous material, supreme accuracy, and carefully tested movements by renowned testing authorities in Geneva has made Rolex the pinnacle of the luxury watch world. Rolex captivates with its timeless design, meticulously thought out down to the smallest detail – from the striking structure of the case to the perfectly legible minute hand. It's no wonder that it represents a true wonder watch for many people and, thanks to clever marketing ideas, has lost none of its appeal in the new century.