Why look for an alternative to the Cartier Santos?

Developed in 1904 specifically for the "Father of Aviation," Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Cartier Santos wristwatch is a true icon among pilot's watches. There's hardly a watch collector who wouldn't desire to call one of these special luxury watches their own. All Santos de Cartier models are in high demand, which repeatedly leads to limited availability and sometimes makes it difficult to acquire the watch in the preferred version. This – and the hefty price of the Cartier Santos pilot's watch – explains why many watch enthusiasts are searching for alternative models. This article first profiles the Cartier Santos watches and then focuses on alternative models that can hold their own against the Cartier timepiece.

The most important things in brief

This article deals in detail with the following topics:

• Design features of the Cartier Santos : The design of the Cartier Santos, which is sometimes made of stainless steel and gold, is characterized by a square case, Roman numerals and visible screws on the bezel.

• Selection criteria for alternatives : When purchasing alternative models, design similarities are of particular interest, but also the quality of the movement and the price-performance ratio.

• Popular alternative models : Several brands offer watches that are reminiscent of the Cartier Santos in terms of design and features. Examples include the TAG Heuer Monaco , the Tetra model from Nomos Glashütte, and the DolceVita ladies' watch from Longines .

The history of the Santos de Cartier

The Cartier Santos was designed at the beginning of the 20th century by none other than the jeweler and Cartier heir Louis Cartier. He pursued the mission of creating a pilot's watch that allowed easy legibility without the pilot having to take their hand off the controls. At that time, pocket watches were almost exclusively produced, which, in the eyes of aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, did not fully meet the demands of aviation. So Louis Cartier thought of something new: He made a case with corners, to which two curved lugs attached at the top and bottom. These provided attachment points for a leather strap, allowing the watch to be worn comfortably on the wrist. Thus was born the Cartier Santos , one of the world's first wristwatches. Incidentally, it accompanied Alberto Santos-Dumont into the cockpit when he set the flight record in 1907 and was mass-produced from 1911.

Over the course of its more than 100-year history, the Cartier Santos has undergone several minor changes. Since 1978, the Cartier de Santos, named by Louis Cartier after Alberto Santos-Dumont, has been a permanent fixture in the Cartier product range. The most recent reissue of this watchmaking icon was in 2018 and brings with it the unmistakable charm and touch of history that has always been characteristic of Cartier Santos models. Regardless of the exact reference, every Santos de Cartier pilot's watch serves as an authentic, historic homage to great pilots and the achievements of aviation.

Key features of the Cartier Santos

The history inherent in every Cartier Santos model alone makes these watches truly special. Their design is also truly unique, definitely worth a closer look. When you first see the Cartier Santos, one design feature immediately catches your eye: the shape of the case. The case is not round, as was typical for pocket watches of the time, but rather has a precisely cut, rectangular shape. Also not to be overlooked are the visible screws placed around the dial, which make this pilot's watch stand out from the crowd to this day. The design is rounded off by classic Roman numerals that contrast sharply with the dial.

Cartier offers models in stainless steel, white gold, and yellow gold, as well as several bicolor versions for men and women , as part of the Santos collection. Some models feature exquisite diamond cases, while others combine stainless steel or gold with a leather strap in an extravagant color or play with the color scheme of the dials. In any case, Cartier always succeeds in imbuing its luxury watches with an undeniable elegance that transforms both the vintage models and the more modern versions into truly chic pieces of jewelry.

On a technical level, a lot has changed over the decades-long history of the Cartier de Santos. While the watches were once powered by a Jaeger movement, more recent models house a quartz caliber or a self-winding mechanical movement. Overall, the Cartier Santos collection is now divided into five product lines, which we would like to briefly introduce:

Santos de Cartier Galbée

The Santos de Cartier Galbée features the square case typically associated with Cartier Santos watches and is delicately shaped with diameters of 24 or 29 millimeters. Available in stainless steel, gold, and diamond-set, the charming Santos de Cartier Galbée impresses with neatly placed decorative screws, the signature Roman numerals, and a comparatively low price.

Cartier Santos 100

Cartier celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Santos luxury watches in style with the release of the Cartier Santos 100 series. Its expansive size makes it a model chosen more by men than women, while the other design features—from the screws to the case shape to the Roman numerals—remain intact. The product line includes several highlights, such as the Santos 100 XL Tourbillon with a powerful in-house caliber, and also incorporates modern materials such as carbon and titanium.

Cartier Santos-Dumont

Anyone seeking a reference with an unmistakable resemblance to the "original Cartier Santos" by Alberto Santos-Dumont is well advised to consider a watch from the Cartier Santos-Dumont line. These traditionally designed timepieces resemble the first Cartier Santos pilot's watch in many respects, with the only difference being the placement of the railway minute track.

Cartier Santos Skeleton

With the Cartier Santos Skeleton, all eyes are on the hand-wound caliber 9612 MC, which, thanks to its skeletonized construction, can be admired without barriers. Watch enthusiasts who appreciate technical refinement will certainly get their money's worth with this model, which is sometimes available in an iced-out version.

Cartier Santos Demoiselle

The Demoiselle aircraft, built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, lends its evocative name to this women's product line. The Demoiselle watches measure 24 or 28.5 millimeters in diameter, ensuring a comfortable fit even on narrow wrists. Delicate lines, a finely crafted case, and the classic characteristics of the Santos collection make the Cartier Santos Demoiselle the ideal watch for women with sophisticated style.

Anyone who thinks the Cartier Santos is only available with a square case is seriously mistaken. The two versions, the Santos Rondo and the Santos Octagon, demonstrate the versatility of this iconic pilot's watch in terms of design and offer alternatives for those who don't like the square-shaped models.

Selection criteria for a Cartier Santos alternative

If you're looking for alternatives to the Cartier Santos by Louis Cartier from various watch manufacturers, it's a good idea to consider some useful selection criteria beforehand. First and foremost, a wristwatch chosen as an alternative to the Santos de Cartier should, of course, be similar in design to the original. To do this, you should ask yourself which design features you particularly like about the Cartier Santos. Is it the case shape, the visible screws, or perhaps the Roman numerals? The watch you're considering should definitely have the features that are most important to you personally.

The quality of the inner workings also plays a role. Cartier watches are characterized by the highest quality, reliable calibers, which contribute significantly to the high quality of the timepieces. Therefore, it's essential to be clear about your personal expectations in this regard and to carefully study the (automatic) calibers of alternative watches. It's also advisable to consider your preferred materials. Do you specifically want a gold watch, would you prefer a stainless steel model, or perhaps the timepiece must be equipped with a leather strap? All of these previously defined criteria make it easier to find the perfect Cartier Santos wristwatch alternative.

Popular models and manufacturers as alternatives

Below we will look at some popular alternative models to the Santos de Cartier or Cartier Santos and discuss their key features and characteristics:

Alternatives from Cartier: Panthère and Tank

Loyal Cartier fans may find it difficult to embrace an alternative model from another manufacturer. Fortunately, Cartier itself offers several products that could be considered as a replacement for the Cartier Santos. First, there's the Panthère model, available from €3,950, with a square bezel, decorative screws, and Roman numerals on the simple white dial. The Tank model is also worth a closer look. It features an Art Deco design reminiscent of the Cartier Santos, with the dial set in a rectangular case, and prices start at €3,550.

Bauhaus meets elegant discretion: The Nomos Tetra

If you're drawn to straightforward, modern design, the Nomos Tetra is sure to suit your taste. Featuring a square stainless steel case and comfortable leather strap, the watch is available with either a white dial or a dial in trendy pastel shades. The splash-proof model, which can be personalized with a personalized engraving, is priced at €1,900.

Square modernity: The TAG Heuer Monaco

The TAG Heuer Monaco presents itself as a functional alternative to the Cartier Santos. The square case frames a sporty dial that showcases the chronograph function and a date display. This self-winding wristwatch, which could be described as a sports version of the Santos de Cartier, is available in stainless steel or titanium and costs at least €7,600, depending on the reference.

Affordable and stylish: The Casio Vintage

A Casio vintage watch will make the hearts of price-conscious retro fans beat faster. The square case shape immediately evokes memories of the Cartier Santos, but the style of the watches is much more understated and straightforward. The simple models, available with both analog and digital time displays, start at just under €40, making them an interesting Cartier Santos watch alternative for people who can forgo luxury and the associated quality in favor of a real bargain.

Aviator flair for women: The Longines DolceVita

With their rectangular case shape, Roman numerals, and combination of stainless steel and a leather strap, the DolceVita watches from Longines are not dissimilar to the Cartier Santos. The watches, some of which attract attention with colorful dials and straps, are equipped with quartz movements and are available for €1,550.

Performance and investment potential

In the past, Cartier Santos watches have proven extremely stable in value across almost all references. This makes them attractive for investors who primarily want to use the watches as an investment. The enduring value of this Cartier icon certainly sets it apart from some alternatives. If you want to use a watch as an investment, you're more likely to choose the original Cartier than the inexpensive retro Casio. The Cartier name alone is a promising feature for investors, as Cartier watches are known worldwide for their quality. With the Cartier Santos and Santos de Cartier models, there's also the exciting story surrounding Louis Cartier and Alberto Santos-Dumont, which makes the watches even more attractive to pilots and any aviation enthusiast.

Care and maintenance of a high-quality wristwatch

A high-quality wristwatch like the Santos de Cartier requires care. Ultimately, it is the way it is maintained, stored, and cared for that determines whether the watch remains in good condition for years and decades to come, which in turn affects its value. To avoid scratches and other damage during storage, watches should always be placed on a soft surface. For watches with mechanical automatic calibers, a watch winder is recommended, as it ensures that the timepiece does not stop even if it is not worn for an extended period. Manually wound models, on the other hand, must be regularly wound manually according to their power reserve.

Any dust deposits can be easily removed from the case and crystal with a soft cloth. When caring for the strap, the material plays a key role. A leather strap benefits from being rubbed with a suitable leather conditioner from time to time, while metal straps can be wiped with a cloth and cleaned between the links with a fine brush or cotton swab.

In addition to home care, we recommend taking expensive watches to a specialist on a regular basis. They can professionally inspect the watch's condition and repair any minor damage before it can cause major problems. This way, your favorite timepiece—whether it's a dress watch, diver's watch, or pilot's watch—will remain functional over the long term and continue to bring joy to its proud owner for as long as possible.

Where can you buy Cartier Santos and its alternatives?

An expensive wristwatch like the Santos should only be purchased from reputable, reputable dealers and specialty stores. Vendors who offer extremely low prices for supposedly original and immaculately preserved, or even new, luxury watches should be viewed with particular skepticism. After all, the watch world is not without its share of scammers who seek to profit handsomely from the sale of the occasional counterfeit watch from major brands. Therefore, it is crucial to choose a trustworthy vendor and thoroughly examine the object of your desire for genuineness and authenticity. Ideally, you should choose a trusted, reputable dealer who will expertly verify authenticity for the customer, provide guarantees, and sell the watch with all important documentation.

At HORANDO , all of this is a given. We ensure that every single watch is 100% authentic before offering it for sale. So, when our customers purchase a Santos Pilot's Watch or an alternative version from us, they can be confident they're getting an authentic icon. This makes buying a watch a risk-free pleasure!

Conclusion and purchase recommendations

The Cartier Santos went down in history as one of the first wristwatches and the watch made personally for Alberto Santos-Dumont. This pilot's watch, with its square case, characteristic decorative screws, and railway minute track, has long since achieved iconic status in the world of watches and is worn today in various men's and women's versions, including the Santos 100, Santos Rondo, and Santos de Cartier Galbée. The search for a chic and dignified alternative leads through the ranges of various brands such as TAG Heuer, Longines, and Nomos, but Cartier itself also has interesting alternative models up its sleeve with the Tank and Panthère models. In conclusion, however, it remains to be said: Even the best alternative can only approximate the authentic Cartier Santos, but can never fully achieve its iconic uniqueness.