Baselworld 2019: The highlights and surprises of the year

Apr 16, 2019by Alessandro Rossi
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It was that time again, and the latest novelties, trends, aesthetic creations, and technical innovations of the watch market were presented at Baselworld 2019 from March 21 to 26. This year, the industry's most important trade fair offered several impressive highlights from several brands that you absolutely should know about. Didn't have the chance to marvel at the new products in person or laboriously click through articles and videos since the event to find out more for yourself? No problem: In the following overview, we've already summarized everything you need to know about the latest developments from your favorite brands, so you're fully informed about this year's Baselworld.

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross is expanding its vintage range in 2019: The BRV-92 Blue Steel, with a diameter of 38.5 mm, features a stainless steel case and a strongly domed dial in sky blue. The intense contrast with the white tone of the luminescent indices, numerals, and skeletonized hands makes this timepiece visually appealing and particularly legible. The vintage look is completed by a brown leather strap. Inside the watch beats the BR-CAL 302 caliber, based on the automatic ETA 2892-A2 movement. Another annual highlight from the Swiss watchmakers known for their "rough edges" is the new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 MA-1, inspired by the iconic MA-1 flight or bomber jacket of the US Air Force from 1958. The intense orange details, combined with the khaki background, create a truly high-contrast eye-catcher. The most striking features on the two-tiered dial are the large indices, numbers and hands.

The upper khaki-colored plate at the level of the indices and numerals is open, allowing the orange SuperLumiNova below to shine through – a magnificent color mix that is also echoed by the two-tone, reversible calfskin strap. The characteristic angular case has an edge length of 42 mm and is made of ceramic in a matte khaki tone. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 MA-1 is limited to 999 pieces. The availability of the next treasure is just as limited: The BR03-92 BI-Compass model from Bell & Ross is a homage to sophisticated pilot's watches. The qualities of the timepiece speak for themselves: just like its inspiration, no compromises are made when it comes to ideal legibility and total reliability. Just like in the cockpit, the BR03-92 BI-Compass features a two-level dial that displays the hours, minutes, and seconds separately. This is also reflected in the US Navy-inspired color scheme. This allows the time displays to be read quickly and accurately at all times. The typography is also reminiscent of cockpit counters – a true pilot's watch for the wrist.

Breitling

Breitling has fundamentally revised its Superocean diving watch series, which has existed since 1957. The models now come in a wide range of colors and sizes. The prime example is the Superocean 42, with a 42 mm case diameter and the chronometer-accurate Caliber 17, which is available with a blue, white, or orange dial. The watch is available with a rubber or steel strap. The Superocean 48 is its XXL counterpart; with a diameter of 48 mm, this large timepiece certainly makes a statement. With a DLC-coated titanium case with a ceramic bezel, a soft iron inner case, and water resistance of up to 300 meters, the watch has much more to offer than just supersize. The locking mechanism on the rotating bezel protects against adjustment, and the expansion curves in the rubber strap ensure a secure fit underwater – small yet significant details that demonstrate that every detail has been considered in the Superocean series. Breitling's all-new Premier Norton Edition pays homage to its collaboration with the British motorcycle brand Norton Motorcycles. A plaque on the side and the sapphire crystal caseback features the logo of the storied company, along with a Norton motorcycle print. The 42mm stainless steel case, with its gold hands and numerals and brown rawhide strap, creates an aesthetically pleasing, nostalgic image. Norton, by the way, is offering a limited-edition Breitling motorcycle with a café racer look!

There's also something new in the popular Navitimer line: a 60-year-old, historic, and popular model is being reissued. The Navitimer Ref. 806 Re-Edition stays close to the original, featuring the same 40.9 mm case diameter, all-black dial, acrylic crystal, the logo of the American Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), and a bezel framed by 94 delicate pearls. Only two changes have been made: there is no glass case back like the original, and water resistance has been increased to 30 meters. To equip the new model with a hand-wound movement, Breitling designed the hand-wound caliber B09, based on the automatic in-house caliber B01. This caliber was incorporated into the new Navitimer. In keeping with the original's release year, this re-edition is limited to 1,959 pieces. And the Navitimers continue: With three Airline Editions of the Navitimer 1, Breitling pays tribute to airlines that had a lasting impact on the style of their era. The Navitimer series was inspired by aviation right from its launch in 1952. Now, three watches have been developed in honor of the popular airlines Pan Am, Swissair, and TWA. All are powered by the in-house chronograph caliber B01, which boasts chronometer accuracy and a 70-hour power reserve. The Airline Editions are particularly recognizable by their dials in the colors of the respective airline, as well as the airplane-shaped tip of the central second hand. The name of the corresponding airline is also printed on the case back. The Pan Am model comes with a blue dial and silver subdials, while the Swissair model is black and red. The version with a silver dial and anthracite gray subdials is again the TWA Edition. The three watches are available with vintage and Milanese bracelets. This collection is also limited.

Chopard

This year, Chopard is once again releasing a new Mille Miglia Race Edition. This automatic chronograph is dedicated to the legendary vintage car race, which will take place again in 2019. From May 15th to 18th, hundreds of participants will once again drive the more than 1,600 kilometers from Brescia to Rome and back. Chopard has been the timekeeper and sponsor of the event for over 30 years. This year's Mille Miglia Race Edition features a ruthenium-colored, gray-blue dial with a date display at three o'clock and chronograph displays at six, nine, and twelve o'clock. The indices and hands of the 44 mm timepiece are coated with Superluminova for ideal legibility, even at night. The Mille Miglia logo is engraved on the case back. Like the 2017 edition, the new version is powered by the COSC-certified automatic caliber ETA/Valjoux 7750. The tachymeter scale engraved on the blackened aluminum bezel insert allows you to calculate your average speed during the race. The watch is complemented by a perforated cognac-colored calfskin strap with matching stitching—a design inspired by racing gloves. The strap lining also recalls a Dunlop tire motif from the 1960s. This unique racing watch is limited to 1,000 pieces.

Hublot

Hublot's new Classic Fusion Ferrari GT represents a premiere in several respects: It is the first Hublot watch to feature Ferrari's GT models, the first Ferrari timepiece in a Classic Fusion case, and the first watch to house the company's own Unico manufacture caliber. The caliber is a smaller version of the Unico chronograph movement from 2018, but with the same 72-hour power reserve. Ferrari was actively involved in the design development of the 45mm model. The most striking feature is the newly shaped bezel. The watch is available in three different versions: Hublot's special red gold version "King Gold," titanium, and extra-rugged 3D carbon fiber. The chronograph functions are highlighted in typical Ferrari red, with only the reset pusher remaining in classic black. The strap of the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT 3D Carbon is specially made by the Schedoni saddlery in Modena, which has been producing luggage for Ferrari for decades and also supplies the seat trim for the Scuderia's Formula 1 racing cars.

Hublot has now released its second watch in collaboration with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Büchi. Three years after the first collaboration, the Big Bang Sang Bleu II follows. The bezel, with its atypical hexagonal shape, was retained in the artist's second creation, but a rounder shape was achieved by continuing the six facets. Round and angular at the same time, a pattern that can also be found in the sapphire crystal – fitting for Plescia-Büchi, who likes to experiment with geometric shapes. This time, the Big Bang Sang Bleu II is a chronograph with a flyback function, which makes it considerably more interesting than its predecessor. The time is displayed using two large diamond-shaped discs, the tips of which are coated with Superluminova. Only the elapsed stop seconds are indicated by an actual hand on the 45mm timepiece. The "blue blood" is available in titanium or rose gold versions and is limited to 100 pieces each.

Patek Philippe

In 2019, Patek Philippe presents another pilot-style timepiece with the new addition, the Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P-001. In addition to the familiar function of a second time zone in 12-hour format and the two day and night displays, there is now an easy-to-use alarm that, like the date, is adjusted to the local time. The pusher at two o'clock can be used to turn it on or off, and the crown at four o'clock can be used to set the time in 24-hour format. Patek Philippe has filed four patents for the specially developed alarm mechanism. The transparent case back provides a clear view of the impressive in-house caliber AL 30-660 SC FUS, which comprises a total of 574 components. For the first time, the case of a Patek Philippe chiming watch is now water-resistant – but that comes at a price: This special watch with its sophisticated mechanics and platinum case costs a whopping €204,050.

Rolex

The 2017 anniversary model of the Rolex Sea-Dweller was extremely well received by fans of the brand. The timepiece's date magnifier and red lettering generated enthusiasm – so it's hardly surprising that a new version of the iconic diver's watch is already being released in 2019. This time, it's an edition with a "Yellow Rolesor" case, a two-tone version of stainless steel and yellow gold. Rolex used gold for the unidirectional rotating, scratch-resistant bezel and the Oyster bracelet. Even the numerals on the bezel are gold-plated. The gold tone is also echoed on the black dial of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller: the gold-colored Sea-Dweller lettering gives this timepiece a truly sophisticated look. Just like the 2017 model, a date magnifier arches over the date display at three o'clock. The size and water resistance are also unchanged at 43 mm and 1,220 meters. The indices and hands are coated with luminous material for optimal readability. The watch also features a helium escape valve and, thanks to the in-house automatic caliber 3235, boasts an impressive 70-hour power reserve.

Tag Heuer

TAG Heuer has developed a new Autavia . The three-hand watch features a blue dial and matching rotating bezel, marking the start of an entirely new Autavia collection. Compared to the Autavia Chronograph launched in 2017, it's not just the color that's changed: the bezel is now slimmer and features minute numerals instead of hours, with Arabic numerals indicating the hours. The hands are also differently shaped, and the usual logo has been reused. Most striking, however, is the development of the crown: It is considerably larger on the new Autavia and features a groove in the center. This is a homage to the brand's historic onboard clocks, which were used in cars and aircraft from the 1930s to the 1950s. Inside the 42mm watch is the chronometer-certified Calibre 5 automatic movement, based on the ETA 2824, but equipped with the new, in-house produced graphene hairspring. The name "Isograph" on the dial also refers to the in-house hairspring. The new Autavia comes with a strap made of fine brown calfskin.

Tudor

For its new Black Bay P01 diver's watch, Tudor drew inspiration from a 1960s prototype designed for a U.S. Navy research program. The stainless steel watch features a bidirectional rotating bezel with 12-hour graduations. To prevent accidental adjustment, Tudor has equipped the 42mm timepiece with a special bezel locking system between the movable lugs. Once adjusted, the bezel is secured by a folding stainless steel element at 12 o'clock and can then no longer be rotated – a mechanism already featured in a 1968 prototype. The P01 in the name stands for "Prototype 1." The protected winding crown at 4 o'clock and the locking system elongate the case asymmetrically. The Black Bay P01 features the collection's signature snowflake hands on its black, domed dial, which have been a hallmark of Tudor diving watches since 1969. The heart of the watch is the in-house COSC-certified MT5612 automatic movement.

But the Black Bay line is experiencing even more surprise growth this year: The Black Bay Chrono S&G is Tudor's second offering. This bicolor model features pushers, crown, bezel, tachymeter scale, indices, hands, and center links in yellow gold. The chronograph's totalizers also reflect the color of the precious metal, albeit in a more subdued form. The 41mm case is made of stainless steel and houses the COSC-certified MT5813 automatic caliber, which is based on the Breitling B01 caliber. The two-tone watch features the typical characteristics of Tudor models: the domed sapphire crystal and the similarly domed dial in matte black are reminiscent of the first Tudor diver's watch from 1954. The famous snowflake hands are also present. The watch is water-resistant up to 200 meters and comes with a stainless steel-yellow gold mix strap, brown leather with a removable cuff, or black textile.

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Authors | Alessandro Rossi

Authors | Alessandro Rossi

Alessandro spent his youth in Florence, surrounded by the city's classical art and craftsmanship. His father, a watchmaker, let him help at the workbenches as a child.

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