The best watch brands: icons, innovations and investments
Watch lovers and collectors know: Technically sophisticated luxury watches are far more than devices for telling the time. They are valuable works of art and express the centuries-old tradition of watchmaking in such a stylish way that many people regard them as the most important and most expressive accessory of all. At the same time, they serve as promising investments and, for connoisseurs of haute horlogerie, carry a significance that goes far beyond their material value. This applies above all, of course, to the fine products of the most popular and renowned watch brands of our time, which are the subject of this article. We give an overview of the most important watch manufacturers, take a closer look at the top 10 watch brands, explore the secrets behind their success and turn our attention to their most sought-after models.
The key points in brief
Among other things, the following aspects of the best watch brands are discussed in more detail below:
Iconic models: The Rolex Daytona, the Nautilus by Patek Philippe and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are examples of luxury watches that have long since achieved legendary status and paved the way for "their brand" to reach the Olympus of watch manufacturers.
Historical and technical background: Watch fans are interested not only in the individual watches, but also in their technical background and the historical development of the respective brand. After all, it is the course of history and the technical achievements that made today's production of these fine watches possible in the first place.
Luxury watches as an investment: Sought-after references from major brands such as Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are attractive investments for investors.
The craft of watchmaking: Art and science
All the great watch brands have one thing in common: As companies, they are shaped by the history of watchmaking over the past centuries and operate in a field of craftsmanship with an enormously rich tradition. Their watch models live from skills and know-how that largely date back to earlier times, have been meticulously refined and today make it possible to create astonishingly complicated and precise luxury watches.
Alongside tradition and "old" knowledge, however, it is also the spirit of innovation that is inherent in the giants of the watch world and unites them. A watch manufacture that does not think ahead, rests on what is already established and is not brave enough to try something new will quite simply be left behind in the market. This is why new technologies and inventions also play a central role. Every successful luxury brand strives to optimise its models, for example by implementing new technical ideas, developing special materials or testing different methods of integrating complications. In this way, traditional art and modern approaches come together in iconic watches that take our breath away.
Before we draw up a top 10 list of the best watch brands from Germany, Switzerland and around the world later in this article, we will first look at the best-known brands without any specific ranking or order. In doing so, we will talk about the historical background of the companies, the valuable contributions they have made to the watch industry and their most iconic models.
Rolex: The icon of the watch world
We start with a luxury watch brand that quite naturally holds a firm place among the prestigious greats of the watch world: Rolex. The company, whose success story began at the start of the 20th century, was founded by Hans Wilsdorf and stands for pure luxury. Inventiveness and a spirit of innovation are in its genes, so to speak. Wilsdorf was a true visionary and, for example, created the incomparable Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch with a hermetically sealed case.
Trying to compile a list of all sought-after Rolex watches would result in a very long list. That is why we are concentrating here on the "best of the best", which undoubtedly include the legendary Rolex Daytona. The watch, which initially sold rather slowly when it was first released in 1963, regularly achieves record prices at auctions and is the epitome of a sports watch steeped in history at the highest technical level. Just as famous is the Rolex Submariner, which has been seen on James Bond's wrist several times and is considered one of the most popular dive watches of all.
The third watch among the Rolex icons is the GMT-Master II with a waterproof Oyster case and a second time zone, which in terms of function is aimed at frequent travellers and globetrotters who do not want to do without a generous portion of luxury on their wrist when on the move. Its striking design with the two-tone bezel has earned it numerous nicknames, including "Pepsi" (blue-red), "Starbucks" (black-green) and "Batman" (blue-black).
Patek Philippe: The quintessence of elegance
Founded in 1839, the Patek Philippe brand – which at the time was still called Patek, Czapek & Cie – looks back on a long company history. The Swiss manufacture, which made watches for Queen Victoria of England and the Hungarian Countess Koscowicz, among others, has given the watch industry numerous achievements, including the first perpetual calendar for pocket watches, the first double chronograph and the first wristwatch with a split-seconds chronograph. In 1989 the watchmaker pulled off a real stroke of genius: It released the Calibre 89 with no fewer than 33 complications, making it the most complicated watch of all time up to that point. No wonder, then, that Patek Philippe is still one of the absolute leaders when it comes to building technically sophisticated watches.
Besides the impressive "inner values" of Patek Philippe watches, watch fans also appreciate the manufacturer's timepieces for their exceptionally elegant designs. Even sporty watches such as the Aquanaut and Nautilus dive watches are characterised by an unmistakable elegance that makes them wonderfully easy to combine with a suit or tuxedo. Both sports watches are also available in somewhat more delicate versions for women and in such a varied selection that everyone should be able to find a model that suits their personal taste exactly.
Incidentally, this variety runs through the entire Patek Philippe product range. A look at the range quickly reveals a huge spectrum of models for her and him, with Patek Philippe always remaining true to certain core values: Quality, precision and elegance form the common thread that runs clearly through the manufacturer's wide variety of watches.
Audemars Piguet: Masterful craftsmanship
The Audemars Piguet watch brand was founded in 1875 and is still in the hands of the founding family today. This gives it an independence that few brands in the watch industry still possess. The question of whether Audemars Piguet has the courage – so important and mentioned at the beginning – to leave the beaten track was answered quite clearly around a century after the company was founded. At that time, the brand set a memorable milestone by starting to produce luxury watches made of steel. What is nothing unusual today was practically unthinkable at the time. Steel watches were at best functional instruments, far removed from any status symbol character.
That changed with the introduction of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which the brand designed together with the designer Gérald Genta. Over his lifetime, the creative mind of Gérald Genta, who worked with Rolex and Omega as well as Audemars Piguet, produced around a hundred watches in total, but the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is definitely one of his greatest masterpieces. To this day, it forms the heart of the manufacture's product portfolio and is offered in three lines – Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak Concept. The classic Royal Oak delights collectors with its impressive range of functions, which, depending on the model, includes a tourbillon, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar or a chronograph function. The coveted watch models are also available in a version with an extra-thin case – a design feature for which Audemars Piguet is renowned.
Investors, on the other hand, like to keep an eye on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak above all because of its potential for appreciation. The multifaceted models of the Swiss brand have always enjoyed strong demand and are therefore considered extremely attractive investments with stable value.
Cartier: Elegance and tradition
One name that must not be missing from any list of watch brands is Cartier. Those who rarely venture into the world of watches may initially associate this brand more with outrageously expensive jewellery than with timepieces. Yet as early as 1904, Cartier influenced the watch industry by building a modern wristwatch for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This was followed by numerous luxurious timepieces and collections that positively brim with elegance and chic. But it is and remains the watch from the early 20th century that, as the Santos de Cartier or Cartier Santos, takes the hearts of watch lovers by storm.
Today, the Cartier Santos collection comprises a large number of models with different case sizes and in various materials. Sometimes the Cartier Santos, recognisable by its visible screws and octagonal case, appears in a simple steel guise with a colourful dial, sometimes it shines in gleaming gold and shows off its Roman numerals in high contrast on a classic white background. What all models have in common is the harmonious look that results from perfectly chosen proportions and the precisely defined shape that lets the case flow smoothly into the bracelet.
Apart from the Santos de Cartier, one other Cartier watch in particular attracts attention: The Tank. With two parallel side bars that create a straight-lined connection between case and strap, the Cartier company shows its modern side with the Tank. The watch, which was presented to the public in 1919, stands out from the crowd thanks to its elongated case shape and combines this expression of fresh ideas in its design with traditional elements, for example in the form of Roman numerals.
Lange & Söhne: German precision
The history of the A. Lange & Söhne brand began with Ferdinand Adolph Lange, who acquired his knowledge of watchmaking during his apprenticeship with the Saxon watchmaker Johann Friedrich Gutkaes. The manufacture he founded in Glashütte initially concentrated on making high-quality pocket watches and was continued by Lange's sons. The company made a name for itself, among other things, with the "Jahrhunderttourbillon" (Tourbillon of the Century) released in 1900, for which Emil Lange received the Knight's Cross of the French Legion of Honour.
After the end of the Second World War, the company was forcibly nationalised, so that for the first time it was no longer run by the Lange family. That changed again in 1990, however: Reunification gave Walter Lange the chance to take up his inheritance and bring the brand back into family ownership. In the years that followed, A. Lange & Söhne rose like a phoenix from the ashes. The watch brand proved its profound skill in precision mechanics and quickly rose to become one of the best-known luxury watch brands from Germany. A. Lange & Söhne thus became a brand that plays in the same league as the "really big names" – such as Rolex, Omega or Patek Philippe – and stands for German precision and attention to detail.
It is precisely these values that are reflected in the brand's signature model – the Lange 1. This first-class watch with a three-quarter plate and screw balance unites the great achievements of Saxon watchmaking and integrates modern, innovative elements in a visually coherent way, such as the off-centre dial design and the striking large date. In this way, the Lange 1 represents both the company's adaptability and its "old" knowledge, which largely dates from the times when A. Lange & Söhne was engaged in making high-precision pocket watches. Another particularly well-known model of the brand is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Its design immediately catches the eye with its novel mix of analogue and digital display components and secures the Zeitwerk a place among the luxury watches that are guaranteed to be remembered.
Jaeger-LeCoultre: Innovation and versatility
Active in the watch industry since 1833, the Jaeger-LeCoultre company, headquartered in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, is an extremely broadly based watchmaking house. The brand's versatile expertise is based on the collaboration of specialists from a wide variety of fields related to watchmaking and results in watches that impress with virtually unrivalled quality down to the last detail. The name Jaeger-LeCoultre expresses the fusion of Swiss watchmaking technology with French style – a characteristic of the brand that can be found in every single watch.
This exquisite blend is illustrated particularly impressively in the Reverso collection, among others. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso luxury watches, once built for use in polo matches, have a unique feature: Their reversible case. The reversible case originally served to protect the watch's crystal from any blows during a polo match – an innovative idea. In terms of design, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has an androgynous style which, in some models, is softened by harmoniously set diamonds and drifts more towards feminine elegance.
The brand's wide-ranging expertise mentioned above is underlined by the Master Control product line. Here you will find everything that makes the hearts of technically minded watch fans beat faster, from watches with a chronograph function to models with date and moon phase display through to 24-time-zone pieces. Every model impresses with such strong design that the description "luxury" almost seems an understatement.
Other outstanding luxury watch brands
Of course, alongside the luxury watch brands already presented in detail, the watch world has numerous other manufacturers that really ought to be mentioned. How could a list of the top watch brands be complete if, for example, it did not refer to Omega? After all, Omega watches are regarded worldwide as the epitome of Swiss watchmaking rich in tradition. If you ask watch collectors which is the best Swiss watch, Omega watches – above all the Speedmaster and Seamaster models – are always named alongside Rolex models. The brand is famous in particular for its decades-long shared history with space exploration, to which we owe, among other things, the legendary Moonwatch.
The same goes for TAG Heuer timepieces, which win over lovers of sporty designs in particular in no time at all. Closely linked to motorsport, the TAG Heuer brand produces analogue watches and smartwatches that meet the high demands of racing thanks to enormous accuracy and practical features. The keyword "sports watches" leads us straight to the next great watch brand that deserves a place on any such list: Breitling. The brand focuses primarily on pilot's watches and chronographs and offers numerous watch models that prove how well sporty, functional concepts can be combined sometimes with a plain, classic look and sometimes with colourful extravagance.
Top 10 watch brands: The best in the watch world
Having talked in detail about some of the most important brands and watch models, it is time to put our cards on the table: Which watch brands are the best and make it to the top places of our top 10? In making our selection, we primarily took these three criteria into account:
Quality: High quality of the watches, careful workmanship and technically flawless execution
Innovation and history: Impressive company history, innovative achievements and international renown
Popularity: Demand and recognition among watch lovers, collectors and investors
On this basis, we arrive at the following ranking of the top 10 watch manufacturers:
#1: Rolex – The crowning glory of watchmaking
First place goes undisputedly – and certainly to the surprise of few connoisseurs – to the Rolex brand. It combines all the characteristics of an iconic watch brand, as it has a company history rich in tradition, enjoys enormous prestige all over the world and has produced almost countless luxurious watches that still amaze us time and again today.
Facts & figures
The history of the successful watch brand, fittingly represented by the symbol of the crown, began in 1905 when Hans Wilsdorf founded a watch distribution company
The first waterproof wristwatch – the Oyster – was made by Rolex, as was the first watch waterproof to 100 metres, the Submariner
According to estimates, the company, headquartered in Geneva, today produces more than one million watches a year
Most popular models
Daytona: Sports watch with a tachymeter scale on the bezel and three totalisers
Submariner: Dive watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel, 60-minute graduation and triple sealing system
GMT-Master-II: GMT timepiece with a second time zone, 24-hour graduation and date display
#2: Patek Philippe – Sportiness and elegance in symbiosis
In our view, second place is deserved by the Patek Philippe watch brand. The experienced manufacturer went down in the history books with great technical inventions and today enjoys the status of a true icon of the watch industry. Many fans of high-end timepieces are likely to associate Patek Philippe with one thing above all: The brand's ability to give functional sports watches a thoroughly elegant appearance in a harmonious way.
Facts & figures
The roots of the Patek Philippe brand, which is based in Geneva today, go back to 1839
Among other things, we owe Patek Philippe the first pocket watch with a perpetual calendar, the first split-seconds chronograph in a wristwatch and the world's first double chronograph
Around 55,000 Patek Philippe watches are made each year at the production site in Plan-les-Ouates
Most popular models
Aquanaut: Modern dive watch with luminous hands and date
Nautilus: Legendary dive watch with an octagonal, rounded case and date display at 6 o'clock
#3: Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak in focus
The Audemars Piguet watch brand, which we place third in our ranking, is most strongly associated by most watch lovers with the Royal Oak product line. Then as now, it is the heart of the manufacturer, which is known for the exclusivity, quality and functionality of its models.
Facts & figures
Audemars Piguet was founded in 1875 by Louis Audemars and is still family-owned today
The brand was one of the first to take the step of producing high-end luxury watches in steel
Around 45,000 watches leave the Audemars Piguet workshops in Switzerland every year
Most popular models
Royal Oak: Classic, highly complicated luxury watch designed by Gérald Genta
Royal Oak Offshore: Royal Oak with visible screws and an octagonal case
Royal Oak Concept: Visually futuristic Royal Oak with a ceramic case and visible screws
#4: Omega – Luxury from Biel
Even though Omega only just misses the podium in our list, many watch fans regard the Swiss brand as Rolex's biggest competitor. The watch brand owes this status not least to its technically mature movements, its versatile designs and the huge demand for Omega watches, which has made the popular models interesting for investors for decades.
Facts & figures
Omega was founded in 1848 and is now part of the Swatch Group
Among other things, the company is committed to researching and preserving the oceans and is also inseparably linked with space exploration
The brand's headquarters are now in Biel, where around 570,000 Omega watches "roll off the production line" every year
Most popular models
Seamaster: Dive watch collection that includes the Aqua Terra, Diver 300M and Planet Ocean models
Speedmaster: High-performance timepieces that measure up to the demands of real astronauts and are particularly sought after in the Moonwatch Professional version
#5: Jaeger-LeCoultre – The watchmaker's watchmaker
Because of the quality, reliability and complexity of the movements that come from Jaeger-LeCoultre, the brand was given the nickname "The Watchmaker's Watchmaker". A very fitting name, as numerous major brands have repeatedly relied on Jaeger-LeCoultre calibres. A fact that leads to this watch manufacturer marking the golden mean of our top 10 list.
Facts & figures
Jaeger-LeCoultre has existed since 1833 and is based in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland
The company is one of the few in the industry whose watches go through all processes, from development and production to verification, in its own manufacture
Jaeger-LeCoultre is characterised by the combination of the finest Swiss technology with elegant French design
Most popular models
Reverso: Sports watch with a reversible case, originally designed for polo matches
Master Control: Technically strong classics with a wide variety of complications
#6: Vacheron Constantin – The veteran among watch brands
If you want to buy a watch that radiates an aura of tradition and quality with every single component, Vacheron Constantin is the right address. The manufacturer in sixth place in our ranking has been making watches for more than 250 years, resulting in an exceptionally rich wealth of experience.
Facts & figures
The company was founded in 1755, making Vacheron Constantin one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world still in existence
The brand, which today belongs to the Richemont Group, is based in Switzerland, in Plan-les-Ouates to be precise
The annual production volume of only around 15,000 watches underlines the exclusivity of the watch brand
Most popular models
Patrimony: Timeless classic with an extra-thin case in the style of the 1950s
Overseas: Antimagnetic watches with a wide range of complications and water resistance between 5 and 15 bar
#7: Breitling – Large diameters, great models
Big, bigger, Breitling: The watch brand, habitually mentioned in the same breath as Rolex, Patek Philippe and similarly important manufacturers, attracts attention with varied designs and large cases. One look at a Breitling watch is enough to know that the Swiss manufacturer shies away neither from modern design elements nor from generous diameters – a mix that appeals to watch lovers all over the world.
Facts & figures
The Breitling company has been in business since 1884 and is based in the tranquil little town of Grenchen
Well-known "ambassadors" from various areas of sport work with Breitling and act as famous brand ambassadors
Every year, Breitling enriches the market with around 170,000 sporty, luxurious watches
Most popular models
Navitimer: Iconic pilot's watch with a 24-hour scale and optional chronograph function
Avenger: Visually massive pilot's watch with date, water-resistant to 300 metres
Superocean: Modern dive watch with a colourful, high-contrast design
#8: A. Lange & Söhne – Precision from Glashütte
If a watch comes from the A. Lange & Söhne manufacture, this is always a clear indication that the wearer can expect the utmost precision. Against the background of more than 150 years of company history, A. Lange & Söhne thus quite rightly secures 8th place in our top 10 ranking.
Facts & figures
A. Lange & Söhne was founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange
With the creation of the "Jahrhunderttourbillon" (Tourbillon of the Century) in 1900 at the latest, the company achieved worldwide fame
The relatively low annual production of around 5,500 watches means that sought-after references of the brand are sometimes traded at very high prices on the secondary market
Most popular models
Lange 1: Elegant dress watch with date, screwed gold chatons and off-centre dial design
Zeitwerk: Extraordinary wristwatch with analogue and digital components
#9: TAG Heuer – Petrol in the blood
TAG Heuer's closeness to motorsport is almost tangible for anyone who wears one of the brand's models on their wrist. The watch manufacturer, which now also offers smartwatches alongside analogue timepieces, is the first port of call for everyone who has petrol in their blood.
Facts & figures
The Swiss watchmaker Edouard Heuer founded TAG Heuer – formerly Heuer – in 1860
The brand quickly earned an enviable reputation in the field of sports watches
One of TAG Heuer's great achievements is the Mikrograph, built in 1916, the world's first stopwatch to allow measurements accurate to a hundredth of a second
Most popular models
Carrera: Sporty watch with date and optional chronograph function
Monaco: Visually striking chronograph with a square case
#10: Cartier – Haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie united
No question: Cartier makes jewellery for women and men that enjoys almost unparalleled popularity on the market. But the company's watches are also impressive and earn Cartier 10th place on our list of the best watch brands.
Facts & figures
The Cartier brand first saw the light of day in Paris in 1847
The manufacturer combines the arts of haute horlogerie with its expertise in the field of haute joaillerie
Just like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier also belongs to the Richemont Group
Most popular models
Santos: Legendary collection made up of the Santos 100, Santos de Cartier and Santos-Dumont models
Tank: Delicate wristwatch with a rectangular case and Roman numerals
Luxury watches as an investment
Investing in a luxury watch can be an extremely clever idea – provided you choose the right model. In principle, of course, it is never possible to predict with complete certainty how a watch's value will develop. However, certain brands and models have become particularly popular investments over time and offer a higher probability of lucrative resale. This applies in particular to Rolex's well-known sports timepieces, for example Daytona, Submariner and GMT-Master-II watches, as well as to Patek Philippe's Aquanaut and Nautilus models and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
Before buying a watch as an investment, it is always advisable to find out about current demand on the secondary market and past price development. The main focus should also be on the condition of the watch – whether it is from Rolex, Patek Philippe or another renowned manufacturer. Damage and signs of wear can depress the price just as much as missing or incomplete papers, boxes and other accessories.
Conclusion
Given the fairly large number of manufacturers and watches in the luxury segment that enjoy above-average popularity, it is easy for watch fans to lose sight of the essentials. Ultimately, it is the quality of the products, the company's spirit of innovation and know-how, and its knack for technology and design that turn a brand into an icon. These are all ingredients that form an integral part of the recipe for success of brands with long-term appeal, such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, Audemars Piguet and Breitling.
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