A line from the jewellery workshop
Chopard is one of the few houses to combine watchmaking and haute joaillerie under one roof, and L'Heure du Diamant is the line in which the two come together most clearly. Here the design does not start with the movement but with the stone: The setting, cut and arrangement of the diamonds determine the proportions of the case, not the other way round. Setting is done by hand in the Geneva ateliers, using prong, channel or snow setting depending on the model – the latter lets stones of different sizes flow into one another so that no metal remains visible. Since 2018 Chopard has used only Ethical Gold from certified supply chains, a step that only a few brands of this size have taken to date. The watches in this line are therefore as much a piece of jewellery as a timepiece.
Shapes, materials and dials
Unlike the brand's sports lines, L'Heure du Diamant has no uniform case design. The Round models feature a classic round case from 26 millimetres, alongside oval and cushion-shaped versions whose dimensions are given in two directions. The cases are made of rose gold and white gold, usually with a fully diamond-set bezel. The dials range from white and coloured mother-of-pearl and pavé settings to opaque lacquers in green, blue or red that match the colour of the strap. Strap options include alligator leather, textile and integrated gold bracelets, fastened with a pin buckle or folding clasp in the case material. This variety makes choosing within the line more a question of occasion than of specification.
The technology behind the setting
Even though appearance takes centre stage, the models in this line are all mechanical. The smaller round cases house hand-wound movements that achieve around 45 hours of power reserve despite their low height and allow for a slim case profile. The larger oval and cushion-shaped models use the Chopard 09.01-C automatic calibre with a power reserve of around 42 hours. Sapphire crystal protects the display, and the water resistance of 30 metres is designed for everyday contact with splashes, not for swimming or diving. Such a watch is best cared for by taking it off when washing your hands or applying creams – diamond settings accumulate limescale and residue faster than smooth surfaces.
