Buyer's Guide

French watch brands

By Sabine Meding—10.12.2023 — 7 min read

French watch brands

High-quality, technically flawless luxury watches do not always come from Switzerland. French watchmakers also have plenty to offer the cosmopolitan watch enthusiast. This article focuses specifically on French watches – curtain up for renowned watch brands and popular models from France.

The tradition of watchmaking in France

Today, Switzerland is regarded as the centre of the watch world. But this was not always the case. Until well into the 19th century, France was home to some of the most successful manufacturers and enjoyed an excellent reputation as the country of origin of exquisite men's and women's watches. With the flight of the Huguenots, the French watch industry lost a good deal of its potential and renown, which is why it has lost importance today compared with the Swiss watch scene.

Nevertheless: A wide variety of high-quality watches is still made on French soil, with Paris, Besançon and Charquemont above all among the most innovative French locations. Even though some renowned brands no longer have their headquarters in France, in quite a few cases their roots go back precisely there.

Famous French watch brands and their history

Reason enough to take a closer look at some of the most important (originally) French watch brands of all time.

Cartier

We start straight away with a brand that is still based in Paris today and is familiar to every lover of luxury watches and jewellery: Cartier. The manufacturer, whose workshop once produced the "Santos" as the world's first pilot's watch, played a major part in establishing wristwatches for men as a common accessory. Cartier has always impressed with thoroughly design-driven collections and manages to win over young and more experienced watch wearers alike.

Breguet

Founded by none other than the watchmaking legend Abraham Louis Breguet, the Breguet company was once based in Paris, France. Today the watch brand, which has existed since 1775, is based in Switzerland, but even after all these years its French origins have not been forgotten. The well-visited Breguet Museum, for example, is still located in Paris, where it invites dedicated watch lovers and collectors to immerse themselves deeply in the history of French watchmaking.

Bell & Ross

Founded in 1992, Bell & Ross represents the younger generation of French watchmakers. With expressive designs and outstanding quality, the brand quickly established itself on the market, and its unmistakable style is very well received. With four oversized numerals, Bell & Ross watches subtly recall cockpit instruments and are in great demand in the lifestyle segment.

Pequignet

Modern designs, high-quality manufacturing and a good measure of courage: Pequignet combines many traits of successful watchmakers and was founded in 1973 – in defiance of the quartz crisis. The brand, based in Morteau and headed by Didier Leibundgut since 2004, has held its own on the market despite adverse circumstances and today counts no fewer than five Golden Dial awards.

Michel Herbelin

If you are looking for somewhat more affordable watches that nevertheless lack nothing in functionality, quality and authentic design, you will find what you are looking for at Michel Herbelin. Here, too, we are dealing with a watch brand from France, based in Charquemont, which produces high-quality models at a comparatively "modest" price.

Yema

Whether on the exploration of the North Pole, on an orbital flight mission or on the Proxima space mission: Yema watches were part of all these events. Since its founding in 1948, this top brand of French origin has repeatedly made a name for itself in connection with historic events, which has certainly contributed to its current renown. The manufacturer's range includes, for example, an exclusive collection for motorsport fans, but yacht watches and models with a "space travel touch" are also available from Yema.

Baltic

Founded in 2016, Baltic is a genuine newcomer that enriches the French watch landscape enormously. At first glance, the newcomer stands out from the competition through its price level, among other things. By using Chinese movements and other components from suppliers, this manufacturer is able to offer watches with sought-after complications and luxurious design at a surprisingly low price. An approach that is evidently meeting with lively interest.

Elegance and style: French watches as fashion accessories

Even though watches of French origin no longer enjoy quite as much attention today as they did many years ago, they are by no means insignificant. Connoisseurs know: Men's and women's watches from France have an above-average amount to offer in many respects.

Through their commitment, one or two world-famous collections and great effort over many years, various brands have ensured that France once again holds a firm place among the countries with a successful watch industry today – even if not in the leading position.

Watches "made in France" bring a little piece of French "joie de vivre" to the wrist and can often keep up with the Swiss competition in terms of quality and functionality. What began with the Huguenots continues today in the form of many new ideas and approaches combined with the tradition of French watchmaking, resulting in innovative models that, with plenty of elegance and style in their luggage, are conquering the world from Paris, Morteau and other locations.

Famous French watch models

Having already talked at length about French watch brands, we now go into detail and take a closer look at three extremely sought-after watches from France.

Cartier Santos

The aforementioned Cartier Santos is a watch that made huge waves. Whereas the market had previously been dominated mainly by women's watches as pure fashion accessories, the Santos established the watch as an everyday companion for men – a turning point. A well-shaped octagonal case, Roman numerals and clean lines give this special model a charming vintage flair that is rarely found in this particular look.

Bell & Ross BR 05

Equipped with a square case, the brand's typical oversized numerals and a date display at 3 o'clock, the watches from the BR 05 collection by Bell & Ross are enormously varied and leave little to be desired in terms of looks. Anyone who is enthusiastic about technically strong timepieces whose high functionality is immediately apparent will certainly get their money's worth with a BR 05.

Breguet Tradition

The watches in the Breguet Tradition line were designed as a tribute to the founder's early works and are meant to express both the company's past and its new visions. This French watch series naturally features the well-known Breguet hands and the Breguet hairspring. Excitingly, it reveals large parts of the movement and immediately catches the eye with its highly unusual appearance.

Buying a French watch: Tips and recommendations

If you would like to own a French watch, it makes absolute sense to first familiarise yourself in general with watchmakers from France, look at different brands and browse through the collections from Paris, Morteau and elsewhere. This gives you a first insight and you may even be able to identify your first personal favourites.

If you then decide to buy a top watch from France, it is often a considerable investment. It is therefore advisable to really take your time over the purchase decision and making the best choice, and to seek professional advice if necessary. After all, the new watch should meet your own expectations as close to 100% as possible – and finding such a suitable model can definitely be easier with the right support.

If you are looking online for a new watch from France, you should also make sure that you are buying from a reputable dealer. Unfortunately, fraudsters repeatedly try to sell counterfeit watches. We therefore advise you to examine every source carefully, to check the authenticity of expensive watches and to buy from proven, experienced dealers.

Conclusion

French watches may no longer hold the prestige that surrounded them until the 19th century, but they are definitely still of great interest to investors and collectors. Many of the big names among watch brands, such as Cartier, Yema and Pequignet, still have their headquarters on French soil today and, with the finest quality, exciting innovations and versatile designs, ensure that watches "made in France" will probably never go out of fashion.

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